How to See the Blue Mountains by Jim Smith, Revisited
The iconic “How to See the Blue Mountains” book by Jim Smith was for a long time the bible for bushwalking in the upper Blue Mountains, documenting just about every walking track between Wentworth Falls and Mount Victoria. It was first published in 1982 for the princely sum of $2.95; two more editions were published in 1989 and 1992. It encouraged bushwalkers to utilise public transport to access walks, included bushwalks that pass through private property and “recommended in a few cases ignoring NPWS ‘no entry’ signs” – sage advice that you’d (sadly) never see in a book today.
Unfortunately “How to See the Blue Mountains” has been out-of-print for some years, although used copies can be found on-line and often pop up in second hand bookshops. Some of the bushwalks have fallen into disuse but can still be followed, while a few have been permanently closed due to landslides or access restrictions. The list below includes all the bushwalks in the first edition of “How to See the Blue Mountains”, sometimes with slightly amended routes necessitated by changes in the tracks or access to tracks.
Another variant of the many walks you can do from the Wentworth Falls Picnic Area with more lookouts (including three “abandoned lookouts” which are still accessible today via Stonehaven Pass).
Murphy Lane – Boronia Point – Lady See’s Lookout – Den Fenella
The track from the end of Murphys Lane is still accessible, but I can’t find any reference to Boronia Point Lookout, and Lady See’s Lookout has been decommissioned and blocked off.
Jim described the National Pass as “one of the most spectacular walks in the Blue Mountains”; sady, a major landslide in 2017 resulted in the closure of most of the track (the Grand Stairway is still open).
8
The Wentworth Pass
Like the National Pass, the more rugged Wentworth Pass via Slack’s Stairs has been closed for a number of years due to a landslide. It may one day re-open.
Now called Moya Point Lookout, this is one of two lookouts on Inspiration Point (the other is Gladstone Point) reached from the Fairmont Resort. (Jim’s route starts from the Conservation Hut, making it a bit longer.)
Experienced walkers only. A steep pass, which is easier now that the ladder has been replaced. It connects to the Vera Falls track and Lindeman Pass. Part of Roberts Pass is closed due to rockfall hazard.
Experienced walkers only. From the bottom of Roberts Pass, Jim restored the Lindeman Pass up to the old Gladstone Coal Mine. Lindeman Pass continues to the Gladstone Pass and onto the Federal Pass.
While I concur with Jim that the Water Board restrictions are “absurd” (he noted it was illegal to do this walk), there are significant penalties for entering the restricted area and this bushwalk is no longer possible.
Experienced Walkers Only. What Jim described as “an overgrown track” from Lyre Birds Glen doesn’t exist any more; however, this walk is very similar to Walk 19.
22
Echo Point – Giant Stairway – Dardanelles Pass – Linda Falls – Prince Henry Cliff Walk
The Dardanelles Pass Loop descends to the valley via the Giant Stairway, passing multiple waterfalls as it returns via the Federal Pass. The route passes multiple lookouts along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk.
Katoomba Cascades – Prince Henry Cliff Walk – Giant Stairway – Federal Pass – Furber Steps
Lots of scenic lookouts on this short but hard bushwalk, which drops into the Jamison Valley via the Giant Stairway and ascends via the Furber Steps (or you take the Scenic Railway up).
Leura Cascades – Federal Pass – Giant Stairway / Furber Steps – Prince Henry Cliff Walk
There are two “versions” of this loop walk – both starting at Leura Cascades and descending into the Jamison Valley via the Amphitheatre Track / Federal Pass. The shorter version ascends via the Giant Stairway and the longer one via Furber Steps. Both complete the loop by returning along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk.
A steep descent via Furber Steps to both the top and bottom tiers of Katoomba Falls (the base of the second falls needs a short bush-bash). Return via Scenic Railway or back up Furbers Steps
Experienced Walkers Only. A “completely overgrown and rather prickly” track is now a fairly distinct track used by climbers, and is no long4r particularly challenging.
Megalong Valley Road – Six Foot Track – Coxs River
Experienced Walkers Only. Described as a long day-walk with the risk of encountering “unfriendly landowners”, this walk follows Megalong Creek and then the Coxs River to a camping area and eco-lodge.
Experienced Walkers Only. Purchased by the NPWS in the late 1990s, Packsaddlers was a commercial horse-packing operation run by the Carlon family, better known as Carlon’s Farm or Dunphys Campground. Can be done as a out-and-back walk or a loop returning via the Ironmonger Track.
Narrow Neck Road – Carlon Head – Megalong Valley Road – Packsaddlers
Experienced Walkers Only. The route as described requires a long (38km / 1hr) car-shuffle. The alternative Carlon Head and Tarros Ladders loop starts & finishes at Dunphys Campground (Packsaddlers). Carlon Head is an exposed pass with metal rungs and chains.
Experienced Walkers Only. An “out and back” route along Narrow Neck, descending Tarros Ladders (Duncan’s Pass) via spikes in the cliffs to Medlow Gap. Alternatively, you could return from Medlow Gap via Carlon Head. The Carlon Head and Tarros Ladders loop also incorporates Duncan’s Pass (from Dunphys Campground).
Experienced Walkers Only. Often described as the Mystery Track, this historic route follows the base of the cliffs from Leura (from the Federal Pass) to Wentworth Falls (Roberts Pass). Lindeman Pass can also be accessed via the Copeland Pass and Gladstone. None of the route is officially maintained or well signposted.
Experienced Walkers Only. Described by Jim as “magical”, the Gladstone Pass was one of the earliest Blue Mountains walks before the trail became neglected. It descends steeply down a beautiful ravine; return via Roberts Pass, Valley of the Waters or Copeland Pass.
While Jim describes this walk as entering the private property of the Kedumba Pastoral Company and violating Water Board regulations, this is one of the few times where this now a completely “legal” route. However, I see no reason for walking down this steep & joyless maintenance road, other than as part of a Mount Solitary loop walk.
Kedumba Pass – Leura Sewerage Treatment Works – Leura Falls
Such an enticing description for a bushwalk! This relatively long bushwalk is mostly on firetrails; the sewerage plant was de-commissioned in the late 1980s and the site is now just a clearing on the valley floor.
An unfrequented walk that (mostly) uses powerline service trails to access Henson Glen on Govetts Creek; you can return the same way or via an alternative service trail to form a loop.
Mt Hay Road – Henlon Glen – Queens Road – Bruces Walk
Experienced Walkers Only. An extension of Walk 47, which continues down Govetts Creek to where it meets Katoomba Creek. A narrow ledge leads to a pass up to the Minnehaha Trail along what Jim called the Queens Road Ridge.
49
Queens Road Swimming Hole
A steep descent from the end of the Minnehaha Trail to a swimming hole at the junction of Govetts Creek and Katoomba Creek.
50
Blaxland Road – Powerline Track – Creek – Mt Hay Road
A descent along the Evans Street Extension Firetrail and Bruces Walk to Wentworth Creek. Return the same way or continue up to Mount Hay Road.
A very short walk from the Hydro Majestic to the remains of a shallow concrete pool once used for hydrotherapy.
<1km
54
Hotel – Sunbath – Wonderland Track – Mark’s Tomb – Station St – Hotel
An easy loop bushwalk from the Hydro Majestic that explores some of the historic trails, with a short detour to Mark’s Tomb (a natural rock formation).
From just above the Sunbath, a steep track descends the cliffs (with ladders and impressive tunnels cut into the sandstone). The track continues along the base of the cliffs to the Coliseum, a natural amphitheatre-shaped cave. A landslide in 2016 took out the last section of the track.
Hotel – Sunbath Valley Farm Track – Megalong Valley Road – Mermaid’s Cave – Station Street
Experienced Walkers Only. After reaching the base of the cliffs, turn right (left goes to the Coliseum) and follow a rough track that drops steeply to Megalong Valley Road. Most of the return is on roads, with an optional side-trip to Mermaids Cave & Falls.
Experienced Walkers Only. A climber’s pass down the cliffs from below the Glen Rosa Track, which follows the base of the cliffs to another pass up near the Three Brothers.
58
Delmonte Avenue – Fire Trail – Explorers Road
A combination of fire trails and bushwalking tracks between the end of Delmonte Avenue and Saywell Road. It’s about 2km one-way with a car shuffle – or a 6km loop.
The signposted Cliff Top Walking Track between Govetts Leap to Evans Lookout offers some of the most spectacular Blue Mountains views. (Can be done one-way with a car shuffle or taxi.)
I’m not sure if Jim would be delighted or shocked by the popularity of this spectacular Blue Mountains bushwalk, which attracts an estimate of around 90,000 visitors annually.
While the entire Rodriguez Pass is officially closed, you can still ascend/descend this track via Beuchamp Falls; returning via the Horse Track (Walk 69) allows you to form a loop.
A challenging but scenic loop that descends to Govetts Creek. Ironically, while Jim advised readers to ignore the “No Entry” sign on the Horse Track, in 2023 NPWS re-openes this track as a result of the Rodriguez Pass being closed.
Described as a “magnificent track” that’s in poor condition, the historic Pilcher Point track is now in pretty good shape and provides alernative access to the Grand Canyon. Return the same way (3.2km) or you can continue down the Rodriguez Pass or along the Grand Canyon Track
Described as a “delightful walk”, the track is now in better condition that it was in the 1980s, and the area has escaped the threat of encroaching housing subdivisions that Jim feared.
One of my favourite Blue Mountains bushwalks, this loop descends via ladders into Centennial Glen and passes The Grotto, before following the base of the cliffs and ascending via Porters Pass.
A loop walk that descends down the historic Little Zig Zag trail to pick up Reinitt’s Pass, which follows the base of the cliffs. Return via Wilsons Glen & Ross Cave.
A shorter loop than Walk 91 which also starts from the end of Kanimbla Valley Road, passing Wilsons Glen & Ross Cave. (The area has largely escaped the urbanisation that Jim feared.)
A loop walk that goes out to Boronia Point, before dropping under the cliff-line and passing Ferris Cave. (Can be combined with Walk 95 to form a longer bushwalk.)
A popular walk to a large cave reached by a steel ladder (the original ladder described as unsafe by Jim has been replaced with a very sturdy steel one!)
Experienced Walkers Only. Now an off-track route, it follows Fairy Bower Creek after the turn-off to Coxs Cave to join up with an abandoned railway line.
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Fairy Bower to Reinitt’s Pass
A challenging and partly off-track route that follows the base of the cliffs via the Dunns Leap Track; ascend Hornes Point (via an established track) or continue along the base of the cliffs to Witches Leap Falls.
Ross Cave (Wilsons Glen)Wilsons GlenPulpit RockWitches GlenView from Horne PointCoxs CaveFairy Bower TrackFerris CaveBoronia PointWitches Leap FallsDunns Leap Track
A very popular bushwalk which “passes through some of the best scenery in the mountains”. You can continue from Lockley Pylon down to the Grose Valley (13km return)
Another bushwalk that has become very popular. An easy firetrail-walk to Baltzer Lookout, and then a steep-ish track down to the spectacular Hanging Rock vantage point.
A steep walk down to a picturesque waterfall. (You can continue down to the Grose Valley and past Burra Korain to the Blue Gum Forest for a long day-walk or overnight bushwalk.)
Some of the tracks were described by Jim as unmarked and obscure; they are now signposted. This bushwalk visits the historic Asgard Mine before reaching a spectacular lookout.
Experienced Walkers Only. This now partly-overgrown historic track, blazed in 1858/59 as part of a survey for a railway route, descends to the Grose River.
An “easy pass into the valley”, Pierces Pass descends about 500m from the Bells Line of Road to the Grose River (you can continue to the Blue Gum Forest to make this a full-day walk).
As well as the “out and back” bushwalking track described by Jim, you can combine this with the Mount Banks One Trail to form the longer 12.8km Mount Banks Loop.
Experienced Walkers Only. This “old, forgotten overgrown track” has been restored, and while very steep it’s now a fairly easy walk to a beautiful pool and waterfall.
Happy Valley waterfallCathedral of FernsChinamans HatWollagangambe River track
The Good, Bad and the Ugly – what’s changed since How to See the Blue Mountains was published?
While Jim Smith expressed some concern about housing developments encroaching on trails, such as along the Henry Lawson Walk, the threat doesn’t appear to have materialised. The biggest impact has been on the Shipley Plateau, where almost all the bushwalks were on private property, and access is no longer permitted. Extreme weather and natural erosion in the form of landslides have had the most significant impact in closing trails; conversely some of the tracks described by Jim as overgrown or neglected are now signposted and in much better condition.
The Good
Surprisingly, many trails are now in much better shape than Jim described in the 1980s – both through increased usage and improved signage:
The “rather faint trails” aroun the Kings Tableland cliffs have become the signposted Little Switzerland Track
Darwins Walk – after a $4.6m investment to restore the trail after multiple flooding events – is now a high-quality, formed track
The Prince Henry Cliff Walk has been transformed into the Grand Cliff Top Walk, a “two-day, one-night experience over 19kms”
There’s also been significant investments in sewerage treatment; at the time of Jim Smith’s first edition of “How to See the Blue Mountains” being published, the Blue Mountains had an inadequate sewerage system. There were 12 overloaded and antiquated sewage treatment plants (including the Sewerage Treatment Works below Leura Falls) discharging poorly treated effluent directly into mountain creeks.
Part of Walk 45 (Kedumba Pass – Leura Sewerage Treatment Works) would have been rather unpleasant
Jim warned readers not to visit Fairy Dell unless they have “a strong stomach” with the stream “a disgusting, slimy, spectacle” from leaking sewer lines. There’s no evidence of this any more.
The Bad
I suspect that when Jim Smith went for a bushwalk, he didn’t need to diligently check multiple Web sites for track closures; the popularity of many tracks (necessitating track upgrades and maintenance) and decreased risk tolerance means that there is always a long list of bushwalks that are temporarily closed. Checking the NPWS and/or Blue Mountains Council web sites for the latest Alerts now forms an essential part of preparing for any Blue Mountains bushwalk.
The Ugly
A number of bushwalking trails have been closed by landslides or the risk of rockfalls, and most of them are likely to never re-open:
Lady See’s Lookout has been decommissioned and blocked off; it’s one of many lookouts along the Overcliff Track
The spectactular National Pass was closed after a tragic incident in 2017 when a NPWS contractor was killed in a rockfall; it’s unlikely to re-open due to ongoing risks
The nearby Wentworth Pass was closed in April 2022 after a freak landslide on a wet day killed two members of a British family and critically injured two others. (This closure also impacted the Slacks Stairs.)
Govetts Leap Track and part of the Rodriguez Pass have been closed due to the risk of rockfall.
The Shipley Plateau area has been most affected by access restrictions; five bushwalks which were on private land are no longer accessible (and one “hopelessly overgrown” track no longer exists).