A long but rewarding day-walk, culminating in stunning views at the “troll’s tongue” that juts out 700m above a lake.
The last walk I had planned at the end of our four-week family holiday in Norway: I hoped the weather gods would look after me for one last time. Being early October, I was prepared for some cold weather but hoping it would be a dry day. Which it was – chilly but not a cloud to be seen!
Leaving Bergen in the late afternoon, I allowed three hours to reach my accommodation at Odda, the closest town to the start of the Trolltunga hike. Unfortunately, the “direct” route I chose involved two ferries… and I hadn’t allowed for a couple of long waits. My three hours became about five hours, and I arrived close to midnight at the aptly-named Trolltunga Hotel (which was very accommodating of my late arrival and efficiently checked me in with a cold beer…!). The quickest route, with the benefit of hindsight, is via the Tørvikbygd-Jondal ferry. There are public transport options, but you’d need allow full day to get there.
From Odda, it was an early morning start to reach Skjeggedal, a 17km drive via a very winding (and scenic) road. I was happy I’d started early (around 6am) and didn’t have to deal with other traffic on a road that was mostly the width of one car. From the car park at the end of the road, it’s a steep climb for the first kilometre as you ascend from 425m above sea level to about 1100m, on a well-defined track. (There used to be a disused funicular that provided alternative access, by walking up the old railway tracks – this is no longer possible as the funicular tracks have been largely removed to make way for a road that is being constructed up to the plateau.)
From the end of this initial climb, a well marked trail continues through a mostly open alpine landscape, passing by a number of lakes and crossing glacial streams. There is one more, shorter climb of 200m or so, partly on a winding, marked trail and partly up a rock face that’s marked by a series of cairns.
Water is plentiful, and in early October there were still a lot of snow on the ground. One short section of the track that is in the shade for most of the day was very icy, and having a set of spikes or crampons would have come in very useful. After about 8km of walking there are the first views into the spectacular Ringedalsvatnet fjord, and a few kilometres further (at around the 11km) mark an artificial lake is reached.
Finally, Trolltunga is reached – a narrow piece of rock jutting out 700m above Lake Ringedalsvatnet. Some metal rings aid access down to the rock, which affords spectacular views – and was rated “the most stunning place in the world to take selfie” by Internet news and entertainment site Buzzfeed.
The walk to here took just under five hours including breaks; the entire hike to Trolltunga and back being 8 hours (six hours of walking + breaks). This is at a fairly decent pace; I’d recommend an early start, both to give you enough time to get back in daylight and to avoid the crowds. There was one other couple that arrived just after me, and no queue to get photos from the rock! On the walk back, I encountered a number of groups making their way to the rock, and that was outside peak hiking season.
A circular walk through Trondheim taking in a number of historic sites, including Vår Frue Church, Nidaros Domkirke, Gamle Bybro and Kristiansten Fortress.
It’s more a walk than a hike… but I’ve included it anyway as there’s a lot of historical attractions and parks within easy walking distance. From the dock (we have about four hours in Trondheim, while our Hurtigruten ferry is docked close to the centre of town), I head to the Old City via Søndregate which crosses the river Nidelva (bel0w).
Nidelva (river) near Søndregate
Walking down Søndregate, I turn right onto Kongens Gate, in front of the Frimurerlogen (a Masonic lodge which hosts many public performances). Opposite the Frimurerlogen is the Vår Frue Church, a stone structure designed in the Romanesque and Gothic architectural style that dates back to the 12th century.
Frimurerlogen (Masonic Lodge)
Vår Frue Church
Not far from here is the city square (Torvet i Trondheim), at the corner of Kongens Gate and Munkegata. In the middle is an 18-metre high statue of Olav Tryggvason mounted on top of an obelisk, which was unveiled in 1921.
Statue of Olav Tryggvason in the Trondheim city square (Torvet i Trondheim)
Continuing down Munkegata, one of the main streets of Trondheim, brings me to one of the city’s star attractions: the Nidaros Domkirke or Nidarosdomen (Cathedral). The world’s northernmost medieval cathedral, it was built from 1070 over the tomb of St. Olav (the Viking king who brought Christianity to Norway) and completed around 1300. (In summer you can climb 172 steps up to the tower; I’m here at about 8am and nothing is open.)
Nidaros Cathedral (Nidarosdomen or Nidaros Domkirke)
Nidaros Cathedral (Nidarosdomen or Nidaros Domkirke) – west front
After walking around the massive cathedral and it’s grounds, I re-cross the Nidelva river across the Gamle Bybro – the Old Town Bridge. Gamle Bybro was built in 1861 by Johan Caspar von Cicignon, as part of the reconstruction of Trondheim after the great fire of 1681. Constructed of wood supported on three stone piers, an iron gate is in the middle of the bridge, with a toll and guardhouse at each end. From the bridge – one of the most photographed attractions in Trondheim – there are views of the old wharves lining the Nidelva river down to the Bakke Bridge in the distance (below).
From Gamle Bybro, I head up to Kristiansten Festning (Kristiansten Fortress) – it’s a steep walk up Brubakken. (The steep road has the world’s first bicycle lift intended for urban areas, with a prototype built in 1993 that pushed more than 200.000 cyclists up the 130m long hill.)
Kristiansten Fortress was built in 1681 after the great city fire, protecting the city against attacks from the east, which it achieved when Sweden attacked Trondheim in 1718. From the fort there are views over Trondheim and surroundings mountains.
From here, with the weather deteriorating, I head back to the dock via Nonnegata, on the other side of the Nidelva to the Old Town.
After an amazing week in Svalbard, we travel south in search of the Northern Lights with a trip around Lyngen, Senja and the Lofoten Islands. We’ve hired a car from Tromsø (having flown into here from Longyearbyen in Svalbard), and cover about 1,500km over ten days, finishing at Svolvaer where we leave the car and take the Hurtigruten down to Bergen.
Lofoten is a chain of islands to the north-west of Norway in the county of Nordland. Known for its distinctive terrain of dramatic mountains and peaks that form a backdrop to the fjords, the scenery lives up to it’s reputation!
Also in Nordland, at the start of our drive to the Lofoten Islands, is Lyngen. The Lyngen peninsula (also known as the Lyngen Alps) is a scenic and mountainous area, and contains many of the highest peaks in Troms county (the highest being Jiekkevarre at 1,833 metres).
South-west of Lyngen and just north of the Lofoten Islands is Senja, the second largest island in Norway which is connected to the mainland by the 1,147 metre long Gisund Bridge. A popular tourist destination known for its scenery (a mix of sea, mountains, fishing villages and beaches), Senja has been described as “Norway in miniature” with the island’s diverse scenery reflecting almost the entire span of Norwegian nature.
(Nordland extends about 500 km from Nord-Trøndelag to Troms, or 800km by road, and is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. So it’s also great for watching the northern lights!)
Nordland has a long history of fishing, with the Lofoten Islands being a centre of of cod fisheries for over 1,000 years. Fish became Norway’s first significant export commodity in the Middle Ages, addressing a market for dried fish in England and on the continent (stockfish being the term for air-dried cod). For centuries, stockfish was the country’s biggest export. The fishing season is in February/March, with the fish then hung on hjell from February to May to dry.
The famous Moskstraumen (Malstrøm), a system of tidal eddies, is located in western Lofoten and the the root of the term maelstrom. It’s the second strongest whirlpool in the world with flow currents reaching speeds as high as 32 km/h [Wikipedia].
The village of Nusfjord, which was one of the most important fishing villages in Lofoten
Fish drying racks near Ramberg
When to go (and for how long)
While the Lofoten Islands lie within the Arctic Circle, they have one of the world’s largest elevated temperature anomalies relative to their high latitude [Wikipedia]. We visited in September, where we were still able to enjoy relatively long days, amazing displays of northern lights and great hiking (all hiking trails being snow-free and accessible). In hindsight, this was a great time to visit – although our timing was somewhat dictated by Australian school holidays – given our objective of seeing as much as we could by car while fitting in as much hiking as possible.
The only caveat at this time of year is that many restaurants are closed or facilities are not fully operational. For example, while almost everywhere we stayed had a hot tub, all (except one) had closed these for the season. Many fishing tours or “summer activities” were no longer offered, or had to be booked well in advance. Conversely, we enjoyed staying in many fishing villages where we were just about the only guests! It felt to us that tourism in the Lofoten Islands “shuts down” at the end of summer.
Personally, travelling in the middle of summer – despite the attraction of the midnight sun – is not so appealing, as I enjoyed the relative solitude of all but the most-popular walks. I think our experience would have been very different a few months earlier (August would be a good time, though).
Around April/May would also be appealing, as the mountains would be snow-covered and look even more spectacular… but without skis and/or snow-shoes and a lot of alpine hiking experience, I wouldn’t have been able to do any of the hikes that I enjoyed so much. If you’re not into hiking (or prefer skiing), I think March-May would be a great time to visit.
For the pros & cons of when to go, 69North has a useful When to Visit Lofoten page on their Web site that explains what to expect at different times of the year.
We spent a week in the Lofoten Islands, staying 1-2 nights at each location – plus three days getting there (from Tromsø). The scenery around Lyngen and Senja was as spectacular as Lofoten, so I’d recommend adding a few extra days if you’re driving. We could easily have spent a few more days in Lofoten: there are many more hikes I could have done, and having 2-3 days at each location would have provided a bit more flexibility to pick the best weather for the higher-altitude walks. If you’re just driving and not doing outdoor activities, 5-7 days would enable to cover all the major attractions. For fishing tours or wildlife tours, book (at least) a week in advance,
Getting there
We flew into Tromsø from Svalbard, and then drove via Alta, Lyngen and Senja – a most enjoyable drive of about 900km over a number of days as we initially went north, before heading to the Lofoten Islands. (It would have been an easy and shorter 300km drive if we’d gone directly to the Lofoten Islands!) We then returned the car at Svolvaer, taking the Hurtigruten from there (which cost about USD$400 extra for a one-way rental).
There are flights into Leknes and Svolvær, these are generally not direct flights from either Tromsø or Oslo. It would be a long (1,300km) drive from Oslo, so flying into Leknes (one direct flight per week with Wideroe or via an intermediate stop with SAS or Wideroe would be an option).
The Hurtigruten (coastal passenger ferry) stops at Stamsund and Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands, and can take you from Bergen (which is a 450m drive from Oslo or a short 50min flight).
Travelling though the Lofoten Islands by public transport is not something I’d recommend: the scenery is amazing and having a car allows you to stop or take scenic detours. We were travelling off-season, so almost everywhere that we stayed the restaurant was closed, meaning a drive to the nearest large town or picking up something to eat on the way. Finally, many of the hiking trails start a short distance from any towns, so having a car makes it much easier to get off the beaten track.
The Hurtigruten services two ports in the Lofoten Islands
Roads are well-marked and traffic is light
Food & Accommodation
Expensive! While no more expensive than anywhere else in Norway, food and dining out is not cheap. We would have easily spent NOK 1,500 (AUD$230) per day on food for a family of four, eating at mid-range restaurants or cafes. Most of the cabins we stayed at were self-catering, and we did get take-away pizzas and other meals a few times, that we could easily re-heat. Being off-season, finding somewhere to eat was often the challenge, with nothing open outside the major towns. Local cuisine – especially reindeer and fish – were a pretty staple menu item, and most of the restaurants had a slightly cheaper kids menu.
By comparison, accommodation was reasonably good value, with an average cost of NOK 2,000 (AUD $300) per night for the four of us, generally in 2-bedroom cabins. We were really happy with the quality of accommodation, with all of our cabins being clean (with the exception of one place that appeared to have been used for a cigar-smoking competition) and in great locations. As we were booking out of peak season, we had no problems with availability.
Northern Lights
There are many experienced aurora photographers providing advice on how to get great photos of the northern lights, so I’ll just add a few suggestions that might be useful:
Forget auto-focus – you need to set the focus manually. If you’re using an SLR, it can be useful to note on the lens where the “infinity” focus point is during the day, or find somewhere bright enough on the horizon for the autofocus to lock onto, then switch to manual focus.
Set the exposure manually – I found ISO 2000-3200 with an aperture of F4 and shutter speed of around 2sec was a good starting point. Some articles I read suggest using higher ISO and faster shutter speed to avoid “blurring” of the lights; the downside is the images can be a bit noisy/grainy. I was happy with the results I got with shutter speeds up to 5sec.
Pick your spots before sunset – unless it’s polar night and dark all the time, scope a few places during the day where there are mountains in the background or water in the foreground (or both), so you can quickly move between different locations.
Don’t get too excited – I failed rather miserably on this one, and ended up with a few bruises from running around excitedly with camera in one hand, tripod in the other while looking at the sky, only to trip over a large boulder that was in front of me. Miraculously, I managed to never actually fall into a fjord…
The Itinerary
Alta to Lyngen
We leave our accommodation (Ongajok Mountain Lodge, located at the end of a forest road in the Norwegian Lapland, about 28km south of Alta) around 10am, having a full day for the relatively short drive to Rotsund in Lyngen.
After a slow start down a narrow forest road back to the E6 highway, we follow the E6 along the Alta fjord (Altafjorden) and then the narrower Lang Fjord (Langfjorden). It’s a pleasant and easy drive, with not much traffic, and a backdrop of steep mountains and autumn colours.
After a few hours driving, the road rises up from the coast, with views over Badderfjorden. There’s some roadwork along this winding section of the E6, and we maneuver around the large trucks that are re-surfacing the road.
It’s now mid-afternoon and we are all pretty hungry… there’s been nowhere to eat along the way so far, and by luck we find the På Taket Kafé in Sørkjosen. Half-expecting it to be closed, we happily discover that it’s not only open, but has an extensive menu (pizzas, burgers, sandwiches) and a balcony with views over the fjord. And very good coffee.
View from balcony of På Taket Kafé
Lyngen Alps
After our late lunch, we have just over an hour’s driving before reaching our destination. The Lyngen Alps, still seeming far away, form an impressive backdrop. We reach our self-contained house at Lyngen North (in the small town of Spåkenes, near Rotsund) around 3pm, and are welcomed by the very friendly owners. The property is right on the water, a spectacular setting with the impressive Lyngen Alps on the other side of the fjord. There’s even two “glass igloos” for couples, so you can watch the northern lights from your bed!
Having a few hours of daylight left, the kids – for reasons that only they can (possibly) explain – think that going for a swim in the arctic waters of the fjord is a good idea, followed by a session in the sauna. Meanwhile, with helpful instructions from the property owners, I tackle the mountain just behind our house.
Storhaugen hike (1,1,42m) A steep climb up to Dalberget and Storhaugen, with increasingly spectacular views of Lyngenfjord and the snow-covered Lyngen Alps as you gain altitude. Near the foot of the mountain and not far from the E6 road are the ruins of the Spåkenes fort, built in 1941 by the German army. Full hike details
After a successful swim and a slightly less successful hike (my enthusiasm was not quite matched by my navigation skills) we have dinner at the house. There’s no restaurant anywhere nearby that’s open, so we’ve bought some things to heat up in the oven.
Later that evening we experience our first Norwegian light show. The aurora lasts about an hour, as it slowly moves from the east (over the Lyngen alps) to the west.
From Alta to Lyngen Driving distance: 200km (total 5 hours, with 3.5 hours driving time) Accommodation: Lyngen North (formerly known as Spåkenes Sjøbuer). Self-contained two-bedroom house. (1 night)
Route from near Alta to our accommodation in Lyngen (Spåkenes, near Rotsund)
Lyngen to Senja
We continue along the E6 the following day as it follows the Lyngen fjord, passing the Route 81 ferry that goes to Tromsø and skirting around the narrow Kafjorden, with views of the Lyngen Alps in the distance. After an hour of half of driving, we spot a “Visit Lyngenfjord” tourist office in Skibotn, which we think may contain food. It sort of does: we get some hot chocolates for the kids and biscuits to keep us going. With very few places to eat and many of those places closed in September, we’ve started to adopt a “sea food” diet – when see anything resembling a cafe or restaurant, we stop and eat!
Ferry servicing Rv 81 crossing the Lyngen fjord
Kafjorden with Lyngen Alps in the background
Following our brunch stop, we continue along the E6, following Storfjorden and the southern end of Balsfjorden as we head west towards Finnsnes.
It’s a great drive, with the forests reflecting the onset of autumn as the leaves change colour.
We have a very late lunch in in the town of Finnsnes at Senjastua, which serves traditional Norwegian food and has a children’s menu. With a population of only 4,371 people in 2013, the village of Finnsnes was granted town status in 2000. Despite this somewhat small population, there’s a traffic jam over the the Gisund Bridge, which connects Finnsnes to the villages of Silsand and Laukhella on the island of Senja.
Nearing our destination, we cross the suspension bridge at Straumnes, on the island of Senja. In the background are are the mountains of Skaland, across the Bergsfjorden on the northwest side of the island of Senja.
Suspension bridge at Straumnes
Mountains of Skaland, across the Bergsfjorden
We reach Hamn around 4pm, where we have a self-contained apartment in a holiday resort for one night. Hamn i Senja is located in an old fishing village dating back to the 1880s; the word “hamn” means harbour. We explore the sea-side property, which includes a lighthouse with panoramic views over Bergsfjorden, before borrowing some fishing rods that the kids cast into the harbour (they somehow manage to catch two small fish, that we throw back in). Being September the restaurant is closed (there’s also no fishing trips or fjord cruises unless booked well in advance), but we have bought some food to cook in the well-appointed kitchen.
Kids fishing for some cod in Senja
We’re hopeful to see the northern lights again tonight after a very clear day, with the lighthouse being a great vantage point. Unfortunately, the sky starts to cloud over in the evening and there’s no auroral activity tonight (at least, none that we can see!). Just some impressive cloud formations with the moon occasionally peeking through.
The next morning, I’m up early to hike Sukertoppen (Sugar Peak), the 456m peak that rises up behind Hamn, before we continue on our trip.
Sukkertoppen hike (456m) The views from the top of Sukkertoppen are impressive – whilst not a particularly high peak it feels like you’re perched almost vertically about the coastline. Looking to the north, you can see the town of Hamn and its protected harbour, and across Bergsfjorden to the mountains of Skaland. Full hike details
From Lyngen to Senja Driving distance: 255km (total 7 hours, with 4.45 hours driving time) Accommodation: Hamn i Senja in Senja (1 night)
Senja to Sjøvegan
We’re on the road by 10am, taking the Rv 862 which is a National Tourist Route; while we have less distance to cover than yesterday, there are many sights on the way. The first (brief) stop is at Senjatrollet (Senja Troll) about 10min away. The world’s biggest troll at 18m high and 125,000kg according by the Guinness Book of Records, the Senja Troll can be clearly seen from the carpark. Which is as close we get, as Senjatrollet, like many other attractions, is closed from early September.
Senjatrollet (Senja Troll)
Senjatrollet (Senja Troll)
We reach Bergsbotn after another 20min and one tunnel later: this 1,894m long tunnel, Skalandtunellen, has two reviews on Google. One of which translates to “Very badly illuminated tunnel by bicycle”. It’s a 4.5-star-rated tunnel, if you’re interested. I’m not sure if I was cycling through a country with over 900 road tunnels I’d stop and write a review of a road tunnel, but each to their own.
View of the mountains behind Krokelvvatnet from Rv 86
The 4.5-star rated tunnel (Skalandtunellen)
Bergsbotn (7 Google reviews and 4.8 stars) is a vantage point off the National Tourist Route, with panoramic views from a 44-metre long platform over Bergsfjord and the surrounding peaks. Designed by Code Arkitektur and installed in 2010, it’s located at the first place where you can once again see the ocean when travelling across Senja.
Bergsbotn, off the National Tourist Route
Bergsbotn, off the National Tourist Route
The road winds steeply down to the Bergsfjord, which it then follows for a while before entering another tunnel at Steinfjord. There’s more roadwork, so we’re escorted through the tunnel by a “Ledebil”, which we guess must mean”leader vehicle”. Disappointingly, this tunnel has no Google reviews or ratings.
Unrated tunnel at Steinfjord
Okshornan peaks seen from Rv 862
As a result of waiting for our Ledebil to escort us, it takes another half an hour or so (rather than 15min) to reach the Tungeneset viewing point. The Tungeneset rest area is on the end a promontory that separates two fjords, the Steinsfjord and Ersfjord. A walkway designed by Code Arkitektur in Siberian larch leads out over the rocks, providing a view of the razor-sharp Okshornan peaks to the east, Husfjellet to the west and the Arctic Ocean to the north.
Husfjellet, looking to the west
The razor-sharp Okshornan peaks, looking east
We don’t make very far until our next stop at Ersfjord Beach, which is “perhaps the finest beach in north Norway”. With rugged mountains towering above the sandy beach and village it’s very photogenic – though a little too chilly for swimming in late September!
From here we continue eastwards, with the road following the coast and going through many more (unreviewed) tunnels, the landscape still very dramatic.
Our next photo-stop, where we hope to fund lunch (but the best we can do is some packets of chips from the general store) is Husøy, a village in the municipality of Lenvik. The picturesque village covers the entire island of Husøy and is connected to the mainland by a 300m long causeway. It’s an active fishing community with a few hundred permanent inhabitants.
With everyone now a little hungry, we make a small detour to the village of Botnhamn (on the west side of the fjord of Stønnesbotn) and then stop in Finnsnes for a late afternoon tea before turning off the Rv 86 and onto Rv 84. After another couple of hours drive we arrive at Garsnes Brygge, where we’re staying the next two nights. A resort and retreat with restaurant and cabins, the complex is situated on Sagfjorden near Sjøvegan. Not all the cabins are full, but it’s one of the busiest places we’ve stayed, and the restaurant is open and has a decent range of really good food using local ingredients, including a few options to keep the (fussy) kids happy!
The following day I’ve got time in the morning for a hike before we drive to the Polar Park in the afternoon, and head off by foot from Garsnes Brygge for the hike to Sommarset-vatnet, which starts nearby.
Sommarsetvatnet hike Ascending from the fjord near Sommerset up to an alpine lake, the walk starts in the forest before rising above the tree-line to a more alpine landscape. The trail stops at the picturesque Sommarsetvatnet (lake) surrounded by mountiaims, but it’s possible to climb up to the adjacent peak. Full hike details
We head to the Polar ParkArctic Wildlife Center in Narvik at 11am, which is the world’s northernmost animal park. Polar Park is home to Norway’s large predators such as bears, wolves, lynx, wolverines and foxes, as well as their prey such as deer, elk, reindeer and musk ox. The animals are all in large enclosures (so it doesn’t feel like a zoo), and the guided tour, which includes predator feeding, was educational and entertaining for the adults – and the kids. Watching the lynxes being fed and hearing the wolves howling was pretty amazing.
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A great day hiking and animal-watching is topped off by our second Norwegian aurora, which went for almost two hours before the clouds started to obscure the lights.
From Senja to Sjøvegan Driving distance: 195km (total 7 hours, with 5 hours driving time) Accommodation: Garsnes Brygges (2 nights)
Sjøvegan to Kabelvåg
It’s a bit of a miserable day as we leave Senja around 10am, heading further south on Fv 84 to the Lofoten Islands. Although when it’s not actually raining, the clouds and mist enhance the mountainous landscape. By the side of the road on the shore of Lavangsfjorden is lonely war memorial that pays tribute to the Norwegian and allied forces that fought the Germans in World War II. The Sjøvegan-Tennevoll road that we’ve just driven down was the marching ground two battalions, and the battle of Gratangsbotn (which is a little further south) was the biggest single attack against German forces on Norwegian soil.
Another hour of driving and we reach Tjeldsund Bridge (Tjeldsundbrua), a 1,007 metre long, 32-span suspension road bridge that crosses the Tjeldsundet strait between the mainland and the island of Hinnøya.
Tjeldsund Bridge (Tjeldsundbrua)
Tjeldsund Bridge (Tjeldsundbrua)
About half-way between the Tjeldsund Bridge and our destination in Storvågan, we pass Valbukta bay and a small side road off the E10 that leads across a narrow spit to Holdøya, and few minutes later there’s a nice view over Sløverfjorden with the mountains in the background.
Valbukta bay and road to Holdøya
Sløverfjorden with mountains in the background
We arrive at Nyvågar Rorbuhotell in Storvåganveien (1km west of Kabelvåg and 6km west of Svolvær) at 3:30pm, where we are staying for in a fisherman’s shack or “rorbu” for one night. It’s a great location, with our cosy cottage looking out over the fjord to the small hills of Hopen on the other side.
We seem to be about the only guests staying at the (reception is closed and our key has been left in the door of our cottage), and the restaurant has no sign of life. After unpacking we drive to Svolvaer, 10 minutes away, where there is a wide range of restaurants.
After a cloudy day when the sun has never come out, we’re pleasantly surprised in the evening when the sky clears and we’re treated to a light show for many hours. The long deck that runs in front of all the cabins and and jetty provide many vantage points for photographing the aurora.
Aurora borealis (northern lights) from Nyvågar Rorbuhotell, near Kabelvåg
Aurora borealis (northern lights) from Nyvågar Rorbuhotell, looking south-east towards Vestfjorden
From Sjøvegan to Kabelvåg Driving distance: 255km (total 6 hours, with 5 hours driving time) Accommodation: Nyvågar Rorbuhotell (1 night)
Kabelvåg to Nusfjord
The next day is looking much nicer, as we take a few last photos from our cabin of the mountains that were covered in cloud only 12 hours ago, and resume our journey south, further into the Lofoten Islands.
First stop is a “quick” ascent of Glomtinden, just off the E10, as the rest of the family seek breakfast and explore the active fishing village of Henningsvaer (nicknamed the “Venice of Lofoten”).
Glomtinden hike (419m) A relatively short walk, starting on an old gravel road and ending with a steep scramble to the summit. The rocky peak offers 360-degree views, from Rørvikvatnet lake to the west, the lakes of Hopsvatnet and Hopspollen to the north-east, and Kabelvag and Svolvaer to the east. Full hike details
After my hike, the scenery from the E10 doesn’t disappoint, as we travel along the Rorvik valley, surrounded by jagged mountain peaks, and then follow the foot of the mountains around the coast.
Mountains surrounding the Rorvik valley
Looking back from the E10 at Rv 816 curving around Sorfjellet
We’re soon crossing the Gimsøystraumen Bridge (Gimsøybrua), a cantilever road bridge that crosses the Gimsøystraumen strait between the islands of Austvågøya and Gimsøya – one of the many bridges connecting the islands of Lofoten as part of the E10 highway.
The Gimsøystraumen Bridge
The Gimsøystraumen Bridge
Having crossed the Gimsøystraumen strait, we make a little detour around the 46.4-square-kilometre island of Gimsøya. At the “top” of the island is Hov, where Lofoten Links is located – one of the few courses in the world where you can play golf in the sun for 24 hours! Beside the golf course is a horse farm with friendly Icelandic horses, which we stop and say hello to.
Golf course at Hov
Horse farm with Icelandic horses on Gimsøy
We continue through the mountainous terrain on the E10, stopping along the way at the Torvdalshalsen rest area (Torvdalshalsen rasteplass), which is one of the National Tourist Route attractions. Located on a hilltop south of Torvdalsvatnet lake and featuring a long screen with benches, it’s incredibly windy but offers a great view of Vestvågøy island.
View from Torvdalshalsen rest area
About 3km after this rest stop, we make another detour to Eggum via the Eggum Tourist route, to the remains of a World War II German radar station. Built on a small hill overlooking the ocean, it’s surrounded by towering cliffs. With an architecturally-designed visitor centre and a huge car park, it looks capable of handling hundreds of visitors in summer… in late September, we are the only people visiting…
Remains of a WWII German radar station at Eggum
Looking back at the village of Eggum
There’s another hour of driving through more spectacular countryside before we reach today’s destination. We pause briefly at Lofotr Vikingmuseum (we’re coming back here for dinner) and stop at the major town of Leknes, where we have a late lunch.
We arrive at Nusfjord in the late afternoon, one of the oldest and best-preserved fishing villages with long Lofoten fishery traditions, about 6km off the E10 highway. We’re staying in one of the 46 traditional fishing huts or rorbu in the village – it feels like the other 45 are village feels very quiet.
Nusfjord, an authentic fishing village
A seagull surveying the Nusfjord harbour
After a few moments of panic when the reception is closed and there’s no-one around, we find someone who helps us find our our key and the directions to our cabin, which is perched over the water. There’s nowhere to eat in the village, but we’ve booked dinner at Lofotr Viking Museum, a historical museum based on the reconstruction and archaeological excavation of a Viking chieftain’s village on the island of Vestvågøya.
It should be only a 45min drive back up the E10 to the museum, but much to our kids’ consternation (they are getting hungry and inpatient!) we stop every five minutes to take photos of the fantastic sunset and evening light.
We arrive a little late for our 7pm Viking feast, which is held in the longhouse. Before dinner we have some time to explore the museum, which includes a full reconstruction of the 83m long chieftain’s house, a blacksmith’s forge and two Viking ships. The Viking feast includes a leg of lamb from Lofoten and honeywine-mead, and is accompanied by an explanation of how the Vikings lived (and ate), role-playing and traditional Viking songs and dances. It’s great fun, and despite being a late night the kids really enjoy it. Especially the bit where they play with the swords and shields!
A great day is completed with an aurora show as we drive back to our cabin – probably the most intense lights we’ve seen so far!
From Kabelvåg to Nusfjord Driving distance: 215km (total 7:30 hours, with 4 hours driving time) Accommodation: Nusfjord Rorbuer (1 night)
Nusfjord to Reine
Leaving late the following morning – it’s a very short drive today – we skirt around the Storvatnet on a narrow road before re-joining the E10.
Storvatnet, with Stjernfjellet behind
E10 along Flakstadpollen
It’s not far to our first stop at Skagsanden beach near Flakstad, one of Norway’s most-photographed beaches. In the distance are the mountains of Moskenesøya. There’s no-one at the campground. Or on the beach. Or anywhere…
A little further in the quaint, small town of Ramberg we find a small restaurant in a historic building, Kafe Friisgarden. Even more surprisingly, it’s actually open! We’re the only customers for lunch, but they serve a great soup for the adults and chicken nuggets for the kids.
From here it’s a short drive to Reine, a fishing village (and the administrative centre of the municipality of Moskenes) located situated on a promontory just off the E10.
It’s a very picturesque village, selected as “the most beautiful village in Norway” by the Norwegian Allers magazine in the 1970s. We’re staying in one of the 32 “rorbu” or fishing huts in Reine Rorbuer – it’s surprisingly busy compared to most of the other places we’ve stayed, and the resort/hotel has a couple of restaurants and a sports and outdoor shop that are all open.
Having arrived in the early afternoon, there’s time for an afternoon hike. I’m joined by my son for our walk, which starts a short drive away in the small fishing town of Å to the south of Reine.
Stokkvikskaret hike A very muddy walk along Lake Ågvatnet, with chains assisting on the steeper parts. We stop near the end of the lake; the track continues up to the Stokkvikskaret Pass and then onto the town of Stokkvika on the other side of the ridge. Full hike details
We have dinner at the on-site restaurant, Gammelbua (once the old general store in Reine) – the food is good with a focus on local cuisine, but it’s a limited menu with not many kid-friendly options. Later in the evening we enjoy some more northern lights, with many great spots to take photos around the hotel.
We have two days in Reine, so on the following day we wander around the village in the morning, before Luke and I tackle the nearby mountain peak.
Reinebringen (448m) A fairly short but challenging trail, starting near the town of Reine. Initially wet, muddy and slippery, the trail soon gets very steep and slippery. It’s well worth the effort, with breathtaking views over Reine and the surrounding mountain peaks. Full hike details
Out second (and last) night in Reine is also our last Lofoten aurora, with the weather deteriorating. Of all the places we’ve stayed, Reine is probably the best location for aurora photography, with many different vantage points.
As we prepare to leave Reine and head back north to catch the Hurtigruten from Svolvaer, we’re farewelled with a rainbow over Reinevagen Bay.
From Nusfjord to Reine Driving distance: 50km (total 3 hours, with 1 hour driving time) Accommodation: Reine Rorbuer (2 nights)
Reine to Ballstad
We’re headed for Ballstad today, a bit over half-way to Svolvaer where we swap our rented car for a ferry… It’s a little overcast, but not raining.
We are more or less re-tracing the route we took south a few days ago, with a quick stop at Skagsanden Beach.
Skagsanden Beach (again)
Looking across Fladstadpollen toward Stortinden
We make a short detour to Vikten, situated on the coast and surrounded by steep mountains. It’s also the site of Glasshytta Vikten, Northern Norway’s first glass studio which was founded in 1976. The ex-fisherman and now glass-blower Åsvar Tangrand creates his art here – you can watch glass being blown and there’s many pieces for sale.
Vikten, on the seaward side of Flakstadøya island
Glass products at Glasshytta Vikten As (photo from Glasshytta Facebook page)
Rather than going directly to Ballstad, we head to Leknes for lunch at the Frk. Lillemor Cafe, and then toward Stamsund. There’s time for quick walk in the afternoon…
Justadtinden (738m) A 12km round trip to one of Vestvågøy’s highest peaks, on an easy-to-follow path. After about two hours walking there’s a final scramble up some steep rocks to the top of Justadtinden. Unfortunately there’s no view due to the weather – but the rocky peak would yield some impressive photos in clear weather. Full hike details
After my hike, we continue to Stamsund, a fishing village on the southern side of the island of Vestvågøy. Overlooking the coast in Stamsund is a statue called “The Tourist” which looks “like a mixture of David Livingstone and Donald Duck”. It was created in eastern Norway based on an African design and brought to Stamsund by Baktruppen (an artist collective) in 2003. The intent was to lower the statue onto the seabed where it could only be viewed by underwater cameras… but there was an outcry and a poll conducted where 95% of respondents wanted the sculpture kept on land!
We follow the 817 road around the scenic Stamsund coast, before heading back toward Ballstad.
We reach our accommodation, Hattvika Lodge, around 5pm where we have a modern and recently renovated self-contained apartment in a fishing village opposite the harbour of Hattvika.
I think we’re the only people staying here and there’s no local dining, so after unpacking we drive to Leknes (only 15min away) where we enjoy what must be the most expensive pizza we’ve ever eaten at Peppes Pizza.
From Reine to Ballstad Driving distance: 130km (total 7 hours, with 3 hours driving time) Accommodation: Hattvika Lodge (1 night)
Ballstad to Svolvaer
It’s a miserable and wet last day in the Lofotens for us as we drive back to Svolvaer, where we need to drop off our car and take the Hurtigruten ferry south to Bergen.
We arrive just before lunch, and taking advantage of what I hope is a break in the weather, I walk up to the northern end of the town. Overshadowing Svolvaer, Fløya is popular with hikers and climbers (although in today’s miserable weather I only see three other people on the hike).
Fløya (590m) A very steep and sometimes slippery trail up to the 590m peak of Fløya, with great views from the saddle despite the wet and misty conditions. There are clear views of Svolværgeita or “The Svolvær Goat” – Lofoten’s most famous mountain formation, on the way up. Full hike details
I’m completely drenched and rather cold when I get back to the Svolvaer town centre; after changing clothes we have a few hours before the Hurtigruten docks. Luke and I have a quick visit to Magic Ice, an ice sculpture gallery near the wharf. They give you a warm overcoat and cold drink in an ice cup, and there’s a lot of ice sculptures to look at.
Fløya behind the town of Svolvaer
Magic Ice in Svolvaer
We watch the Hurtigruten ferry arriving into Svolvaer. My wife boards here with our luggage; I have drawn the short straw and am taking the two kids on a pre-booked “Lofoten by horse” excursion. We take a mini-bus from Svolvaer for the horse-riding at Hoy on Gimsøya (the same place we visited a few days ago).
I’d like to describe this a graceful ride along the beach under the northern lights… it would be more accurate to say I was clinging on to my horse as it plodded up various tracks hoping I wouldn’t fall off.
The horse ride lasts a good hour before we thankfully dismount, and our mini-bus takes us to Stamsund where we board the Hurtigruten.
It’s been an amazing ten-day journey with even more spectacular scenery than we had expected, and many hiking opportunities each with an equally fantastic view over the mountainous landscape.
From Ballstad to Svolvaer Driving distance: 80km (1:45min driving time) Accommodation: We leave on the Hurtigruten ferry in the evening.
More Information
For general information the Visit Norway Web site is always helpful; we used TripAdvisor for research and Booking.com for all of our accommodation bookings. As well as an olde-fashioned print copy of Lonely Planet Norway.
To help work out when to go and how much sunlight you’ll have (outside the polar summer), try Time and Date, and 68 North has useful information on the different seasons.
For hiking, Switchback Travel has an overview of their Top 10 hikes, and 68 North has some general information on hiking in the Lofoten Islands. The book “Explore Lofoten” by Kristin Folsland Olsen is really good – it doesn’t seem to be readily available for purchase on-line, but you should find it bookshops or outdoor shops in the Lofoten Islands.
If you’re into GPS mapping or just want an alternative to Google Maps for looking at where to go or where you’ve been, GodTur.no provides a free, on-line and interactive topographical map. This is particuarly useful if you’re hiking, to check exactly where the hike starts.
A very steep and sometimes slippery trail up to the 590m peak of Fløya – great views from the saddle despite the wet and misty conditions.
My last walk in the Lofoten Islands, before boarding the Hurtigruten (coastal cruise liner) for our trip back south to Bergen. Fløya is directly to the north of Svolvaer, overshadowing the town and attracting hikers and climbers.
Floya, the peak at the far right, to the north of Svolvaer
It was one of the rare days during our stay in Norway where the weather was pretty miserable. We’d returned our hire car, so my hike started with a 2km walk from the centre of town; it’s overcast but not raining. I reach the church graveyard at the north end of Svolvaer on Blåtindveien after less than half an hour, and quickly find the start of the walk, which is after the last house on Blåtindveien.
The trails ascends fairly rapidly, with some short and steep sections aided by chains, and a bit of boulder-climbing or hopping required. It’s not difficult, but it is a bit slow-going on a wet and slippery track, with the rain having now started.
The trail is always well-marked as it rises through the birch forest, and within half an hour views of Svolvaer start to emerge. I’ve only seen one person so far, making a haste descent as the rain threatens to intensify.
As the route continues above the tree-line, it gets muddier and steeper. The track often traverses broad sections of mud and goes up slippery and steep slabs of rock that require care. There are clear views of Svolværgeita or “The Svolvær Goat” – Lofoten’s most famous mountain formation. Climbers leap 1.5 metres between the two goat “horns” – you can see these at the top-left corner of the photo below.
The weather deteriorates as I climb the last – and steepest – section of the trail to the saddle below the summit (540m). To the left is the Fløya summit (590m), another 50m or so higher. (Somewhere below me and to the left is Djevelporten or “Devil’s gate”, a stone block wedged horizontally between two cliffs, that’s a popular photo stop. I meet a trio of hikers just before the summit who also missed this landmark. I’m not sure if there was another track up the mountain I overlooked, but the poor weather precludes further exploration.)
With the rain getting heavier and the wind picking up, it’s too dangerous to find a safe route up the last, very steep, slabs of rock that are now also very slippery to the true Fløya peak.
Instead I turn right (south-west) and follow the very narrow ridge. It’s about a metre in width with a vertical drop of hundreds of metres on both sides. A little hair-raising but the views in both directions are impressive. Some short breaks in the rain allow me to take a few more photos – on a clear day it would be an awe-inspiring view!
After waiting on the saddle for about half an hour for the rain to ease, I give up and make my way down the mountain. It’s easier going down than up – but still very slow-going as the track is even more slippery than before.
As I reach the foot of the mountain, the rain stops and the sun starts to come out again…
Location
Look for sign on Blåtindveien (road), to the north of Svolvaer (on Austvågøya Island)
A 12km round trip to one of Vestvågøy’s highest peaks at 738m, on an easy-to-follow path.
According to my otherwise-helpful and accurate guidebook (Explore Lofoten), this Lofoten Islands hike can be done by bike. By the end of the walk, as I’m hauling myself up vertical slabs of rock with some difficulty, I am thinking either I’m on the wrong trail – or these Norwegians are very hard-core bikers…
The walk starts of as a gravel road from the carpark on Hagskaret, and heads towards a high telecommunications tower a few hundred metres to the north. After the turn-off to the telecoms tower (don’t take this), the path becomes a narrow hiking trail with sections of boardwalk over the muddiest sections. After my last few weeks, I enjoy the feeling of dry feet and not having to plot paths through knee-deep mud! The day is overcast, but the rain is holding off.
It’s a very gradual ascent through rolling hills, with views of Leknes and the surrounding mountains to the south. After about 2km there’s a bifurcation: one trail heads off to the left (west) and goes up to Blåtinden further north. I keep to the right.
Just over 3km from the start, the trail reaches a rocky plateau surrounded by tarns, and the trail descends briefly through a boggy marsh. My feet remain dry thanks to an elevated boardwalk. This is very civilized walking!
The trail starts ascending again fairly quickly, and the top of Justadtinden can be seen in the distance.
The weather is deteriorating, but through the occasional gaps in the mist there are some nice views back towards Stamsund and the sea. It’s a shame it’s not a clear day.
After a bit less than two hours walking there’s a final scramble up some steep rocks, before the top of Justadtinden is reached. There’s really no view – visibility is a few hundred metres – so I don’t linger very long. Two rocky peaks separated by a narrow gap would yield some impressive photos in clear weather. But not today.
Location
Hagskaret, on country road 815, 4km east of Leknes
There is fairly large car park just off the main road.
Distance
12km round-trip with 600m ascent. Allow 3-4 hours.
A very steep and sometimes muddy path to the 448m peak of Reinebringen rewards with awe-inspiring views.
The walks starts near the southern end of the E10 tunnel near the turn-off to the town of Reine, in the Lofoten Islands. We (me and my 8-year old son) are dropped off here – if you are parking the car-park is at the other end of the tunnel, near the Reine turn-off.
The start of the the walk is marked with a big arrow, and follows the coastline for a few hundred metres, rising gradually through birch forest. It creates a slightly false sense of confidence that this might be an easy walk.
It very soon gets very muddy. And very steep. There are a some slippery slabs of rock that require careful negotiation. As you climb, the view toward the south-east, with the E10 following closely following the coast starts giving you a sense of the vistas ahead. (After about 400m a new stone path is being constructed that should make the ascent a much less muddy proposition.) For now the “old” path continues to the right, climbing steeply up the south slope of Reinebringen.
The path gets gradually steeper, if that’s possible, as it nears the saddle just below the peak. We’re partly walking and partly climbing the track as it zig-zags through grass, loose scree and a few muddy sections.
A last scramble and we reach the summit of Reinebringen. It is breathtaking. Reine is directly below, and there are mountain peaks as far as the eye can see.
To the left, a trail continues further up the ridge, and another 200m ascent is possible (if you don’t suffer from vertigo!).
Directly below us we can clearly see our cabin in Reine, in the typical “red and white” Norwegian style of fishing huts.
I could stay here and admire the views for hours, with a handful of other hikers who are on the rocky peak. But after a few minutes my son declares “The view’s OK. Can we go back now” and we start our descent.
It’s just as tricky and slow going down the steep path. I take it slowly and carefully. My son swings on the trees and slides down the mud as if we were at some sort of Norwegian amusement park made of mud.
We walk back into Reine around at 5pm, muddy and tired, but our spirits uplifted by the walk and the view.
Location
Park before the tunnel on the E10, near the turn-off to Reine.
If you are being dropped off, you can start after the tunnel (there’s no parking here). You can also walk from Reine.
Distance
2km round-trip (5km from Reine). 400m steep ascent. 2 hours.
Muddy walk along Lake Ågvatnet, with chains to assist on the steeper parts, leading to Stokkvikskaret Pass and Stokkvika village.
According to my trusty guidebook, this is a popular Lofoten Islands walk on a (mostly) good track… maybe we were there at the wrong time of year: I’d describe it more as long sections of deep mud connected by a vague path. We saw no-one on the track. Although it was still an enjoyable afternoon.
The hike is near the village of Å, at the very southern end of the Lofoten archipelago and a 20min drive from our accommodation in Reine. Leaving our car at the almost-empty carpark we quickly find the fish drying racks, although there are no fish at this time of year (the racks would be full in March/April). The path is already soggy here as we walk through the drying racks and head towards the lake (Ågvatnet), trying to avoid the worst puddles.
The track is not always well-marked, but as it follows the lake we can’t really go wrong. It’s very muddy and it doesn’t take long before we give up trying to avoid the mud, and just walk through it. There’s a few moments where I think the mud may have claimed one of Luke’s shoes that is sucked from his foot, but we manage to recover it!
There’s also a few sections where chains are used to help traverse steep sections, which is good fun.
It’s pretty slow going. After about an hour we pass a small hut that’s by the shore of Lake Ågvatnet, and on the opposite side we see a few fisherman’s huts. After another half an hour the end of the lake is in sight, but it’s getting late in the day and Luke has had enough mud.
The track continues further along the lake and then climbs up to the Stokkvikskaret Pass (and onto the town of Stokkvika on the other side of the ridge). There’s also some low mist, so the view from the ridge wouldn’t be great. We call it a day, and head back along the lake.
Despite the mist, the setting sun glows behind Lake Ågvatnet and the surrounding mountains as we squelch our way back to the car…
Location
Near large carpark in the village of Å (southern end of Lofoten archipelago, at the end of E10 highway). Look for fish drying racks.
A short climb to the exposed mountain peak of Glomtinden (419m), with extensive views over the Lofoten Islands.
It takes a couple of passes to find the starting point of the hike, which is a small parking area half-way along Rørvikvatnet lake. I’m dropped off and begin walking up the old gravel road (closed to traffic) that ascends gradually above the E10. There’s a few other people on the trail, which seems to be popular, but it’s not too busy. Views of Vestvågøy across the lake to the west get more impressive as the trail climbs.
After 1.6km, there’s a small foot-track on the right; it’s not sign-posted but is the route up to the Glomtinden summit (the gravel road continues for another 2km or so before it joins the E10, and is an alternate access point for the walk).
The view continues to get better as the narrow track ascends more steeply, soon reaching a small outcrop of rocks. There’s now also views to the east, with Hopsvatnet lake below.
After 2.7km, there’s a small plateau just before the summit, with a rocky platform that juts out to the east. The view from here is spectacular: from Rørvikvatnet lake to Hopsvatnet lake and Svolvaer in the distance, with the mountain of Vågakallen (943m) to the south.
From here I’ve just got the last, steep 200m to the summit, with some scrambling required at times. There’s a couple of routes you can follow to the top – or just make up your own!
From the top of Glomtinden, the view to the east is really no better than from the saddle below… but you now get 360-degree views, from Rørvikvatnet lake to the west, the lakes of Hopsvatnet and Hopspollen to the north-east, and Kabelvag and Svolvaer to the east.
Hopsvatnet and Hopspollen lakes to the north-east, with Breltinden behind
Looking east to Kabelvag, with Svolvaer in the distance
Rørvikvatnet lake and the E10 highway, with Sørfjellet to the left and the mountains on Vestvågøy in the distance
From the top, it’s a quick, 45min descent back to the car park at the bottom. It’s been a very enjoyable introduction to Lofoten Island hiking!
Location
At Rørvikvatnet on west side of E10 tunnel; look for a gravel road (closed to traffic) that has a small parking area. (It’s also possible to start at Hopsvatnet on the eastern side of tunnel.)
Sommarsetvatnet hike is an (unexpectedly) delightful hike that ascends from the fjord at Sommerset up to an alpine lake that’s surrounded by mountain peaks
I didn’t have particularly high expectations of this hike… I was staying nearby at Garsnes Brygge, and looking for a hike I could do in the morning before our visit to the Polar Park in the afternoon. I’d asked the helpful staff at Garsnes Brygge the previous evening whether there were any local hiking paths, and I got a mixed response, from “a short walk to a lake” to “it’s a steep walk that will take 4-5 hours”. Both descriptions, as it turns out, being somewhat correct…
The Sommarsetvatnet hiking trail starts on Route 152, a one kilometre walk along the road from my accommodation at Garsnes Brygges (or 3km from where Route 152 meets National Highway 84). There’s a sign marking the start of the trail, which is encouraging as I don’t have any map or information on the walk, other than the description(s) I was given the previous evening.
I set off up a rough farm road, which ascends through the forest for about a kilometre, before it becomes a narrow foot trail. After about three kilometres, I reach a small ridge from where there are views back towards the fjord (Sagfjorden) where the walk started. The path ascends a bit more steeply, with the forest becoming more open.
Soon I’m above the tree line, and in a more alpine environment. Walking through grasses and low heath, taller peaks in the distance become visible – Elveskardtindan (1243m) and Hogfjellet (1235m). I think it’s these ones… please correct me if I’m wrong!
A few more minutes walking, and a waterfall appears on the right, fed by the lake (Sommarsetvatnet) above, that I can’t yet see.
Another ten minutes and I reach Sommarsetvatnet, a small lake surrounded by taller mountains.
The trail follows the lake for a few hundred metres before it stops. There is a peak (Lifjellet) above the eastern side of the lake – the side that I’m on – which promises a better view of the area. And a ridge to the north-east that might provide views back to the fjord… It’s steep but easy walking and scrambling up the slope from the lake.
The views are inspiring despite the the overcast conditions, and get better as I scramble up the scree and grassy slope from 520m.
I don’t quite reach the Lifjellet summit at 982m due to time constraints, although I couldn’t see a trig point or any discernible peak. The highest point I get to is 932m, with the view improving as I climb – I can see all the way from Sommarsetvatnet and across Sagfjorden to the peaks on the other side of the fjord.
I slowly scramble back down to re-join the path near the end of the lake, and take the same trail back down. To the lake and back is about 9km; with the off-track hiking up to the Lifjellet peak the total distance covered is 12.5km. Considering my low expectations, it turned out to be a fantastic walk.
Location
Near Sommarset on Route 152. Turn onto Route 152 from National Highway 84 and continue 3km. Nearest major town is Sjøvegan. If you are coming from the E6, turn right by Brandvoll and follow the road to Sjøvegan. At the first intersection after the Salangen Church, a left, and follow signs towards “Salangen Helserehab” and “Elvelund”. Follow this road, Highway 84, for a few minutes until you come to “Laberg”. When you see the sign toward Garsnes Brygge, turn right and follow the road.
Distance
12.5km round-trip with 880m ascent. Allow 4-5 hours.
Grade
Moderate. Some off-track walking to reach Lifjellet summit
A steep climb to the Sukkertoppen peak in Senja (456m above sea level) rewards with 360-degree views over the fjord and surrounding mountains.
There are a few different Sugar Peaks in Norway… this Sukkertoppen hike is in Senja, which is located in the Troms county near the town of Hamn on the coast. The scenery looks spectacular when we arrive in the afternoon, so I’m looking forward to my hike later the following morning.
I head out from our accommodation in Hamn i Senja at 6am, as the sun is starting to rise; it’s 300m to the main road (Route 86), and then after turning right another 900m to the start of the walk, which is well marked. The trail quickly narrows to a walking trail and climbs steadily uphill, providing views north over the town of Hamn.
Start of the Sukkertoppen hike
The views start from just over 100m above sea level
About 700m after the start of the trail from the road, I pass the intersection with the alternative track that goes back to Route 86 on the other side of the ridge. There are now views looking east down the valley to the coast.
View towards the east
HIking path up to Sukkertoppen
The trail rises above the tree line and starts ascending a little more steeply up the exposed ridge after a kilometre (below), passing by some alpine lakes (Storvanet and Grytvatnet). There are cairns marking the way, but the trail is easy to follow though the grass.
The Sukkertoppen path going up the central ridge
Storvatnet (lake)
Nearing the summit, the path veers left towards the coast and goes around Gryvatnet (lake) climbing steeply up the grassy slope and up through some large boulders.
Two kilometres from the start of the hike, the trail reaches a natural platform before the final section of the hike. The views from here are already spectacular!
The final 200 metres up to the Sukkertoppen peak gets even steeper (the incline reaches 23% near the top), with ropes to help where the path gets slippery: a fall from here not would not be very pleasant!
Last section of the path up to Sukkertoppen summit
Looking out to the south over Hamn
The views from the top of Sukkertoppen are impressive – whilst not a particularly high peak at 456m above sea level, it feels like you’re perched almost vertically about the coastline.
Looking out to the north, I can see the beyond the town of Hamn and over Bergsfjorden to the mountains of Skaland.
To the south is the higher peak of Helland (769m) with Storvatnet (lake) below.
Helland (769m) with Storvatnet (lake) to the left
Almost directly below is our accommodation at Hamn i Senja, an old fishing village from the 1880s, located on a small island off the west coast.
After taking in the views, I descend carefully down the steep path again, with the sun now higher in the sky.
About 1.5km from the top, I take the right-hand fork in the trail, which descends back to the main road (Route 86) via the site of an old power station on the Mølnelva river. Built in 1882, this was the first power station in the world based on hydroelectric power; the dam is still standing.
Mølnelva river with Grunnbøtinden (643m) in the background
Dam used by the old Hamn power station built in 1882
From the site of the old power station, it’s just 400m back to Route 86 along an old vehicular road, and then an easy (flat) walk of just under a kilometre back to Hamn i Senja. Overall, the circuit is 4.4km from the road, or 6.5km if starting and finishing at Hamn i Senja.
Location
Two (sign-posted) starting points on Route 86:
N69.41275, E17.15324 and N69.41278, E17.17985. Follow the road 86 towards Gryllefjord if you come from the north of Senja or from inland. If you come by ferry from Andenes to Gryllefjord, follow road 86 towards Finnsnes; Hamn is 10 minutes from Gryllefjord.
Distance
6.2km round-trip with 450m total ascent. Allow 3-4 hours.
Grade
Moderate. Some off-track walking to reach Lifjellet summit
