It’s almost a year since my last trip to the south coast. Last time I hiked with the kids and Grandpa to the top of “Little Dromedary“; this time we’re tackling Mount Dromedary (or Gulaga to use its Aboriginal name), an 806m high extinct volcano and significant Aboriginal site near the coast at Narooma. Gulaga is the place of ancestral origin for all Yuin people, and the mountain is regarded as a symbolic mother-figure providing the basis for the people’s spiritual identity.
The Mount Dromedary (Gulaga) walk starts next to Pam’s Store in Tilba Tilba – the start is well-marked and you can purchase water or snacks from the store. (As I was hiking with my 8-year old son, we made a short detour to the “Tilba Sweet Spot” in Central Tilba for some essential chocolate supplies.) We hit the Mount Dromedary trail at 10:30am: the first 1.5km or so is along an unsealed road though open farmland. Little Dromedary can be seen clearly from here, looking back along the trail. There’s a gradual ascent, from the start of the walk at 30m above sea level to 150m where you enter Gulaga National Park.
After entering park, the track gets a bit steeper and rougher – but remains a 4WD track that is mostly in shade, with pockets of rain forest. After about 3.5km there’s a good view through the trees towards Wallaga Lake and the coast (photo below): this is the best view you’ll get on the entire walk. Many birds can be seen and heard – binoculars and/or a telephoto lens would be useful (I had to leave behind my long lens to make space for my son’s chocolate supply…)
After a couple of hours walking we reach the Mount Dromedary / Gulaga saddle at the 5km mark; there’s a table here, some signage and a toilet. There’s also a short and unmarked path that leads to some spectacular rock formations that have been recognised by Geoscience Australia as one of seven significant rock formations in Australia. This site is also a place of cultural origin for the Yuin people, with the mountain regarded as a symbolic mother-figure providing the basis for the Aboriginal people’s spiritual identity [source: Wikipedia]. All visitors are welcome to climb Mount Gulaga but the Aboriginal elders ask that you stay on the track as some places should not be visited without a Yuin custodian. I’m not sure, having done some research, if this area is deliberately not sign-posted to discourage people visiting?
From the saddle, there should be two options to reach the summit: the Rainforest track, which is longer and follows a ridge up to the summit, and the very steep Summit track. Encouraged by the possibility of chains and danger, my 8-year-old son chooses the Summit track. We find what appears to be the (unmarked) Summit track leading directly up the side of the mountain about 5oom past the saddle. However, the track has no signage or markings and we quickly give up – it looks like the use of this track is being discouraged and the track hard to follow. We stick to the Rainforest Track, which descends a little (not happy about this!) before the final steep and slightly slippery ascent through rain forest to the summit at 806m.
We’ve taken 3.5 hours, 17 breaks and 47 M&Ms to reach the summit… There’s almost no view from the summit, so we enjoy a short break before a much quicker 1.5 hour descent. All up, we’ve taken just over the recommended five hours.
The nearest towns are Tilba and Tilba Tilba – Tilba is a charming village which is definitely worth a visit if you’re visiting the South Coast. Make sure you stop by the cheese factory, and if you have kids the Tilba Sweet Shop is an essential visit! We normally stay closer to the coast around Narooma or Mystery Bay, which is about a 15-20min drive (our last stay was at Mystery Bay Cottages).
More information on Mount Dromedary (Gulaga)
- Tilba Online – Gulaga (Mount Dromedary)
Tandi Tales · October 16, 2019 at 10:43 am
We’re planning this walk over the coming weekend. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe we’ll just tackle the first 3.5km and hang out at the Dromedary Hotel in Central Tilba for lunch. I wonder if they still do their nasturtium salad.
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