Two weeks exploring the south-west of Ireland

It’s my first trip to Ireland, and although in two weeks you could cover a lot more ground, we’re focussed on a more leisurely exploration of the south-west of Ireland. If I could try and summarise my first-time experience of Ireland over this two-week holiday:

1. Ireland is wet. I was expecting a few rainy days; it rains on average one out of two days across Ireland. But I wasn’t really expecting to see the sun three times in two weeks… conversely, the wet and misty weather often accentuated the landscape, and the mist-covered mountains seemed to represent the “authentic” Ireland.
2. Irish people are friendly. I kind of expected this too. But not to the point that asking anyone in Ireland a question would result in a 15-minute conversation, or that my taxi driver would go out of his way to take me the most scenic route to my destination, pointing out on the way the house where he grew up with his eleven siblings.
3. There is a sense of desolation. While the towns and cites are vibrant, as you travel though the countryside the abandoned farm houses and castle convery a slight sense of desolation, as if large parts of the country have been abandoned. Ireland suffered a major population collapse in the 19th century, and the effects can still be seen and felt today. (It also means that Ireland is the cheapest place in the world to buy a castle… but more on that later!)

The Itinerary

We fly into Dublin and out of Cork, driving 2,200km (1400 miles) or about 160km / 100 miles per day on average as we made our way mostly along the coast.

• Days 1-2: Dublin
• Day 3: Dublin to Cashel
  • The Wild Atlantic Way drive
  • Croagh Patrick and Diamond Hill hikes
• Day 6: Cashel to Liscannor
  • Cliffs of Moher hikes
  • Inis Oirr hike
• Day 7: Doolin to Dingle
  • Dingle rock art
  • Slea Head Drive and Dunmore Head hike
• Day 9: Dingle to Portmagee
  • Bray Head Loop and Geokaun Loop hike
  • Portmagee boat cruise
• Day 11: Portmagee to Kenmare
  • Derrynablaha rock art
  • Torc Waterfall loop
  • Carrauntoohil via Devils Ladder hike
  • Killarney National Park scenic drive
• Day 13: Kenmare to Cork

Day 1 & 2: Dublin

As we’re staying close to St Stephen’s Green, we wander through what is the largest of the parks in Dublin’s main Georgian garden squares. Originally a marshy piece of common ground, St Stephen’s Green has an interesting history, including being at the centre of the Easter Rising of 1916 when 200-250 rebels consisting mainly of members of the Irish Citizen Army established a position in the Green. (They eventually retreated to the Royal College of Surgeons on the west side of the Green and were ultimately defeated.)

The highlight of our brief Dublin stay was Trinity College Dublin and the Book of Kells exhibition. The college was founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592 through a royal charter and is one of the extant seven “ancient universities” of Great Britain and Ireland.

Trinity College Dublin houses the Book of Kells which can only be visited through the Book of Kells Experience, a 2-hour tour through the Old Library and Red Pavilion (bookings essential). The Book of Kells is one of the most famous medieval manuscripts in the world, written over 1,200 years ago and depicting the four Gospels of the Christian New Testament. Due to threats to its safety, the book was presented to Trinity College Dublin in 1661 by Bishop Henry Jones for safekeeping.

Just as interesting as the manuscript is the Old Library; the main chamber is called the Long Room, which is nearly 65 metres in length and once held 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books (most of the books have now been moved to a climate-controlled storage facility). The Long Room has a medieval harp on display known as the Brian Boru harp (the oldest of its kind in Ireland) and from the ceiling hangs Gaia, a spectacular illuminated sculpture of the Earth.

Day 3: Dublin to Cashel [275km]

We hit the road on our third day, heading from Dublin to Cashel on Ireland’s west coast. It’s only a 3-4 hour drive, so there’s plenty of time for a few stops. First is the Clonfinlough Stone, a “mysterious stone” that has Stone Age and early-Christian rock art.

Next is the Clonmacnoise Monastic Site, an early Christian centre on River Shannon which was the earliest Irish monastic city after the foundation of an abbey there by St. Ciaran around 545.

By the 9th century Clonmacnoise was Ireland’s most famous monastery (along with Clonard) and accommodated 1,500 to 2,000 people until its decline in the 12th century. Amongst the ruins are a Cathedral, two round Towers, three high crosses, nine Churches and over 700 Early Christian graveslabs.

The original high crosses – including the 10th century Cross of the Scriptures – are displayed in the visitor centre, which also has a short video on the history of Clonmacnoise.

Next stop is the Athenry Priory in Connacht, once one of the most impressive Dominican foundations in Ireland. It was built around 1241, and destroyed in 1652 during the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland.

Near the priory is the restored Athenry Castle, which was built in 1250 by Meiler de Bermingham and consists of a three story tower surrounded by a strong outer wall.

There are an astonishing 30,000 castles in Ireland – or about 1 castle per 163 inhabitants, which is the highest per capita of any country (and the third highest total number of castles after Italy and France). The large number of castles also makes Ireland the cheapest country in the world to purchase a castle…. but be prepared for some significant renovation costs!

Country	Starting Price	Starting Price (AUD)	Est Renovation Cost (AUD)	Highlights
Ireland 🇮🇪	€95,000	~$157,000 AUD	$300,000–$1M+	15th-century castles needing restoration; scenic locations
Spain 🇪🇸	€99,000	~$164,000 AUD	$250,000–$800,000	Medieval towers and estates in rural areas
Italy 🇮🇹	€220,000	~$364,000 AUD	$150,000–$500,000	Castle apartments and towers; some in €1 revitalization zones
France 🇫🇷	€245,000	~$405,000 AUD	$200,000–$600,000	Châteaux and watchtowers; many under €500K
Scotland	£330,000	~$640,000 AUD	$300,000–$900,000	Island castles; dramatic landscapes; often need renovation
Romania 🇷🇴	€400,000	~$660,000 AUD	$100,000–$400,000	Fortified estates with Eastern European charm

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So it’s not surprising that we visit one last castle for the day – Aughnanure Castle in County Galway, also called Caisleán Achadh na nlubhar which translates to “Castle in the field of the yews”. Constructed by the O’Flaherty family in the late 15th century and fully restored in the 1960s it’s one of the best preserved castles in Ireland.

Day 4: The Wild Atlantic Way

We’ve got three nights in Cashel, which is located around the middle of the Wild Atlantic Way – one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world which stretches 2600km (1600 miles) along the entire western side of Ireland. The quick first stop is Cloonisle Quay, which once played an important role in shipping marble from local quarries until the construction of the railway line between Galway and Clifden.

A bit further along the the Wild Atlantic Way is Gurteen Bay and Dogs Bay Beach, one of the many picturesque stretches of Irish coastline.

Despite it being what I’d consider a chilly day, there are a few people enjoying a swim at Gurteen Beach, or Trá na Feadóige meaning “beach of the plover”.

Next stop is Bunowen Pier and the Connemara Smokehouse, Factory Shop & Cafe, which offers the best coffee I’ve had so far in Ireland… and then Mannin Bay Blueway which is perhaps a little optimistically referred to as the Irish Seychelles.

Our route continues through the picturesque town of Clifden, the largest town in the region and “the Capital of Connemara”. A relatively young town founded at the start of the 19th century by John D’Arcy who lived in Clifden Castle, Clifden prospered and its population grew to over 1,100 people until it was decimated by the famine that started in 1845.

The nearby Clifden Castle can only be reached on foot via a pleasant walk, which starts at a large gateway built in 1815 in the medieval style and passes several standing stones erected on the property.

The now-ruined manor house was built around 1818 for John D’Arcy; the D’Arcy estate went bankrupt in the late 1840s as a result of the famine, and changed hands a few times until it fell into disrepair in the 1890s.

We’re now on the Sky Road which hugs the coastline as it does a loop that starts and ends in Clifden and traverses the Kingston peninsula, passing multiple vantage points over the Atlantic Ocean. Even on an overcast day, the views are pretty impressive.

We skip the side-trip to Omey Island, which can be reached at low tide across the wide sandy beach by foot or by car (at high tide the water is over two metres deep). The island was once home to hundreds of people, but no longer has any permanent residents.

There’s more coastal scenery as The Wild Atlantic Way continues north, passing Renvyle Beach (which offers a view over Crump Island) and Lettergesh Beach.

We now head inland as we slowly make a loop back to our accommodation at Cashew, passing Kylemore Lough (one of the largest lakes in the Connemara region) and Killary Harbour (Ireland’s only fjord).

One of the last stops is the picturesque Aasleagh Falls, which you can see from the road – but is best viewed via a short hiking trail along the River Erriff.

The weather is closing as we continue along R336 through increasingly misty and wet conditions, passing Lough Corrib (Ireland’s 2nd-largest lake).

Our last stop of the day is Cong Abbey (also known as the Royal Abbey of Cong), a former Augustinian abbey which dates back to the 13th century and has “some of the finest examples of medieval ecclesiastical architecture in Ireland”.

From here we back-track a little, as we make our back to Cashel.

Day 5: Croagh Patrick and Diamond Hill hikes

Today’s a hiking day: two different mountains (one is more of a hill) and two very different experiences as the weather changes from horizontal rain on my morning hike, to a more pleasant, sunny afternoon.

Close to the hike is the Boheh Stone, a a Neolithic monument in Ireland which is covered in many cup-and-ring marks and keyhole motifs, and from where at the Summer and Winter solstices the sun can be seen to “roll” down Croagh Patrick.

With the weather starting to improve a little, I enjoy some slightly better views on my afternoon hike!

Day 6: Cashel to Liscannor

We’re heading further south; from Cashel we head to the the town of Liscannor, which is our base from which to visit the famous Cliffs of Moher. The drive takes us further along the Wild Atlantic Way, with our first stop being Glynsk Pier (or Cé na Glinsce). The small and secluded pier offers great views of the bay, and is still used by lobster fishermen.

We pass through the outskirts of Galway, and stop for lunch further on in the picturesque fishing village of Kinvarra. Located on Galway Bay, it’s also the location of Dunguaire Castle which lies on the opposite side of the bay to the visit.

Built in 1520 by the O’Hynes clan, the castle was home to great gatherings at medieval banquets and was used in the 1969 Walt Disney movie Guns in the Heather (as Boyne Castle). With its a 25m (75 foot) tower and defensive wall set against the picturesque bay, Dunguaire Castle is said to be the most photographed castle in Ireland.

A short distance further is Corcomroe Abbey, an early 13th-century Cistercian monastery. It’s said that the abbey was commissioned by King Conor na Siudane Ua Briain, who executed the five masons who completed the abbey to prevent them from building a rival masterpiece elsewhere.

Behind the ruins of the abbey is The Burren (Boirinn, meaning “rocky district”), a karst/glaciokarst landscape which consists of limestone pavements that stretch across northern Clare.

We stop briefly at Newtown Castle (also home to the Burren College of Art), a 16th-century tower house which is unique in having a cylindrical shape above a square pyramidal base (across all of Ireland only about 30 of the roughly 3,000 tower houses are round and none of them have a pyramid-shaped base).

We’re taking the more inland route (R480) from here, which passes a number of megalithic and geological sites; the first road-side stop is Ballyallaban Geopark, which provides an example of the limestone pavements typical of The Burren.

The next stop is Poulnabrone, or The Portal Tomb, one of Ireland’s most iconic archaeological monuments and the second-most visited location in The Burren. The large dolmen, a type of single-chamber portal tomb, comprises three standing portal stones supporting a heavy horizontal capstone and dates to the early Neolithic period (3800 and 3200 BC). Excavations in the 1980s revealed the remains of 33 people at the site with radiocarbon dating of their bones indicating that the tomb was in continual use for a period of 600 years.

Adjacent to the portal tomb are more impressive examples of the limestone pavements of The Burren.

Poulacarron Church was the most important church in the area. Originally built in 1200, the remains that exist today are from a 15th century building.

The last ruined building for today is Leamenah Castle, one of the most famous of Ireland’s haunted castles: the red-haired ghost of Mary is said to still haunt this place to this day. Red Mary McMahon (or Maire Rua in Irish) was born in 1615, and legend has it she had 25 husbands over her lifetime and hanged any servants that displeased her, before she was buried her alive in a hollowed out tree. The castle was originally a basic, 5-story Irish tower house built around 1480-1490, part of which was demolished and replaced by a 4-story mansion around 1648.

Cliffs of Moher

We arrive in Liscannor by late afternoon, with plenty of time to explore the Cliffs of Moher. Our first stop is the busy Cliffs of Moher Experience, where paved and fenced paths take you along the top of the spectacular sea cliffs. After dinner and taking advantage of the long days, I head back to explore the Cliffs of Moher from Hags Head along a less “curated” and concreted trail.

Unfortunately the Cliffs of Moher Trail between Liscanor and Doolin was closed the previous year – and may never re-open. Two deaths in 2024 from tourists falling off the cliff prompted the closure, and behind the promises of the trail re-opening “soon” political games are being played. The Cliffs of Moher Trail passes through 38 properties, and after Clare Coumcil paid a staggering €8 million to purchase two farms, the other 36 farmers were left with comparatively miniscule payments for allowing hikers to traverse their property. Further alienating the farmers, a leaked report proposed compulsory acquisition of farmland for the Cliffs of Moher Trail.

Day 7: Inis Oirr

We’re leaving Liscannor today, but our relatively short drive today means I’ve got time in the morning to catch the ferry over to Inis Oirr (Inisheer), the smallest of the three Aran Islands just off the mainland. The drive from Liscannor to the Doolin ferry wharf passes Doonagore Castle, a round 16th-century tower house which is currently a private residence after being restored in the 1970s, and the Doolin trailhead for the Cliffs of Moher Trail.

From Doolin pier there’s a great view of the Cliffs of Moher.

Regular ferry services service each of the three Aran islands or The Arans: Árainn (Inis Mór), the largest island; Inishmaan (Inis Meáin) and Inisheer (Inis Oírr), the smallest island).

Day 7: Doolin to Dingle

Another day, another castle as we stop on our drive from Doolin to Dingle at Carrigogunnell Castle in Limerick. The name of the castle (Carrigogunnell) means “Rock of the Candle” and comes local folklore. The castle was occupied by a wizened hag who lit a candle every night, and anyone who looked at the candle would die before dawn. The medieval fortification dates to at least the early 13th century, and was destroyed in September 1691 during the second siege of Limerick.

The castle sits on a volcanic rock with great views over the low lands of County Limerick and Shannon Estuary.

Kilkeedy Church dates date back to the the fourteenth century, and is said to have been founded by a monk or saint known as Caeide or Caeide.

Halfway between Limerick and our accommodation at Dingle we stop for a bathroom break in the picturesque town of Listowel. There’s a number of historic buildings in Listowel, including St. Mary’s Church (a Roman Catholic Church built in 1810) and Listowel Castle (one of Kerry’s best examples of Anglo-Norman architecture). The castle was built in the 15th century; of the original structure, only two of the original four, 15m-high square towers remain.

Today’s destination is the very picturesque town of Dingle. It’s known for its “hardware pubs” – where you can buy a pint and some wellies – and (just in case this question comes up in a trivias quiz) has the oldest average age for a town in Ireland at 44.4 years. It’s a great base for scenic drives and hikes.

Day 8: Slea Head Drive

I spend the morning exploring a few rock art sites around Dingle, visiting the Aghacaribble 1 Boulder, Ardamore Standing Stones, Lugnagappul Ogham Stones and Milltown Rock Art. The Dingle Peninsula is known for its rich prehistoric rock art, especially Bronze Age cup-and-ring carvings.

We set off in the afternoon on the Slea Head Drive, a 38km loop from Dingle known for its dramatic coastal views and historical sites. The first, brief stop is at Ventry Bay Beach, one of the most popular beaches near Dingle.

Perched on the edge of the tall cliffs is Dún Beag Fort / Dunbeg Fort, an example of a promontory fort that dates back to about 500 BC. Much of the original fort has been lost to the sea through natural erosion and the fort itself is fenced off, so there’s not much that can be seen.

More impressive is Cahermurphy / Cashel Murphy, an ancient stone settlement protected by a thick stone wall. Five connected clocháns (beehive huts) would have housed five families, dating back to about 3200 BC and likely occupied from the early medieval period to the 13th century AD.

The Slea Head Drive hugs the coastline as it continues westward, and there would spectacular views from the road on a clearer day.

At the end of Slea Head is the Cross at Slea Head, a white crucifix set against the rocky cliffs also known as the “Cornerstone of the Peninsula”. It was erected around the 1950s by an Irish-American lawyer who was a relative of a local priest, and marks the boundary between two church parishes. On a clear day there’s a great view from here over the Atlantic Ocean to the Blasket Islands.

The narrow road winds its way between the cliffs and the coastline towards Dunmore Head, which can be seen in the distance.

Dunmore Head is the westernmost point of mainland Ireland, famous for its dramatic coastal scenery and scenic walking trails – and as the location where a scene from the Star Wars movie “The Last Jedi” was filmed. Below the headland is the remote Coumeenoole Beach, which was a filming location for David Lean’s 1970’s film “Ryan’s Daughter”.

A short hike goes to the very end of Dunmore Head for more spectacular vistas…

We resume our drive from Dunmore Head, which is about the halfway point of the Slea Head Drive, with our next stop being at Dunquin. It’s hard to resist a kiosk that offers “The Best Brownie I’ve Ever Had” – and it was a most excellent brownie. (The brownie seems to be one of Ireland’s national desserts, being on the menu in every pub and cafe).

The real attraction here is not the brownie, but the famous and picturesque Cé Dhún Chaoin / Dunquin Pier, which is at the base of the steep cliffs.

Dunquin Pier is accessed by a narrow, steep and winding road which is for pedestrians only.

The pier is used for (seasonal ) ferry services to the Blasket Islands.

Near Dunquin is the Blasket Centre, which tells the story of the Blasket Islands and its tiny Irish speaking community. Emigration and population decline led to the final evacuation of the Great Blasket in 1953, and the island remains uninhabited to this day. A short, paved path from the Centre leads to a clifftop viewing platform offering great views of the Blasket archipelago (on a clear day!) and the Atlantic coastline.

Another viewpoint next to Slea Head Drive would offer spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and Clogher beach on a clearer day.

Kilmalkedar Church (Cill Maoilchéadair) is an early Christian and Medieval ecclesiastical complex; it’s located along the pilgrimage route called Cosán na Naomh (or the Saints’ Road) between Cill Mhic an Domhnaigh and Séipéilín Bréanainn (Brendan’s Oratory) on the summit of Mount Brandon. The unusual Corr Aille Spiral Rock Art is accessed from here – I come back after dinner to visit this site.

Our last stop is the Cathair Deargain Ring Forts, probably built in the 8th or 9th century AD as the home of a prominent farmer and his family.

Day 9: Dingle to Portmagee

We’re on the road again as make our way south to Portmagee; our destination is only about 30km south as the crow flies, but a 120km drive as make our way around a large bay. It’s another foggy and wet day as we detour up to Conor Pass – the highest road in Ireland at around 1500ft (500m) – along a narrow and twisty road. There would be stunning views from here… on a better day…  

At least the rainy Irish weather means the roadside Conor Pass Waterfall has a decent flow.

It’s slow going as we return from the waterfall back up over Conor Pass, with the narrow road testing the driving abilities of a few people.

From An Chonair (the highest point Conor Pass) “you can see Loop Head in Clare, Galway’s Aran Islands and the beaches at Castlegregory” But not today…

There are some nice vistas when the clouds lift a little as we continue along the Ring of Kerry; a reminder that this would be a spectacular drive in better weather.

We are arrive in Portmagee by early afternoon, a seaside village just south of Valentia Island. It’s the departure point for boat tours to visit Skellig Michael, a 6th-century monastic settlement on a steep rocky island which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

There’s still plenty of time after dinner to explore the picturesque Valentia Island, which is linked to the mainland by the Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge at the southern end and a car ferry at the northern end. Valentia Island featured in a Guiness commercial shown only in Ireland only in 2006, which included the Valentia Island ferry and scenes from the Blind Piper Pub in Caherdaniel.

Valentia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially viable transatlantic telegraph cable, which was landed at Foilhommerum Bay in 1857 and stretched about 2,300 miles (3,700km) to Heart’s Content in Newfoundland.

Geokaun Mountain

Geokaun Mountain – the highest point of Valentia Island at 266m, is a great place to catch the sunset. There are four viewpoints and two hiking trails; I start with the longest of the two trails, which is only a mile (1.6km) in length and more of a stroll than a hike. It starts at the Carraig na Circe viewing area.

From the Carraig na Circe viewpoint I head up the top of Geokaun Mountain, where the Shepherds View offers a panoramic vista over Valentia Harbour and Portmagee.

Retracing my steps, I descent the mountain again to park my car at the trailhead for Fogher Cliffs, a very short and level 300m trail.

From the trail there’s a great view of the northern coastline of Valentia Island, with the mist streaming over the island.

At the end of the trail is a viewpoint over the Fogher Cliffs, which tower an impressive 600 feet (180 metres) over the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 10: Portmagee Boat Cruise

Very disappointingly, our trip to Skellig Michael was cancelled – a strong swell and foggy conditions meant no trips out to the isolated rock island were able to go ahead (as was the case on the previous day… and the following day…). Instead, we were offered the consolation prize of a much shorter boat cruise around the Valentia cliffs.

The cruise also offered some wildlife spotting; we spotted a seal and a few puffins.

Day 11: Derrynablaha

I head out in the morning to explore Derrynablaha, a valley which has some of Ireland’s most notable Stone Age rock art. The drive itself is incredibly scenic, despite (or perhaps because of) the misty weather, with the best part starting after the road traverses Ballaghisheen Pass (Bealach Óisín Pass).

The road (Bealach Óisín) crosses a wide valley, which is surrounded by more hills.

Ballagh Beama Gap – described as “a set from Jurassic Park” – is between Blackwater and Glencar, where the single-lane road winds between towering mountain peaks. Well, I think they are towering as I can’t see the tops of the mountains through the fog.

On the other side of Ballagh Beama Gap is Derrynablaha, a verdant valley believed to have been populated by early herding agriculturalists in the Neolithic and Bronze Age periods. There is now just one sheep farm.

The reason I’m here is to visit some of the 29 rock art sites that have been recorded in Derrynablaha… they are scattered from the bottom of the valley up to the ridges. Although I have ambitious plans for the morning – the sites are not too far apart on the map – they are also often located deep within boggy fields. I end up finding Derrynablaha 15, Derrynablaha Derreeny (321) and Derrynablaha Derreeny (311) – three boulders with cup-and-ring motifs.

Day 11: Portmagee to Kenmare

Having returned to Portmagee, we’ve got another scenic drive in the afternoon, as we head to Kenmare from where we have a couple of days to explore Killarney National Park. First, a quick stop at Bray Head on Valentia Island.

We stop for more coastal views at Kerry Cliffs (Aillte Chiarraí); it’s not the best weather for views, and gale force winds lash the tops of the cliffs. The cliffs rise over 1000 feet (330m) above the Atlantic Ocean, and on a clear day there are views of Puffin Island and the Skellig islands.

Despite the wet weather, a handful of people are braving the surf at St. Finian’s Bay (Bá Fhíonáin), which is along the Skellig Ring route we are following.

Ballinskelligs Bay (Ba’na Scealg) which translates to “town of the craggy rock” is the site of Ballinskelligs Castle on the western shore of the bay.

The castle (also called the McCarthy Mór Tower) was constructed by the MacCarthy Mór dynasty in the 16th century to protect the bay from pirates – and possibly in order to charge a tariff on incoming trade vessels.

A little further along the coastline is Ballinskelligs Priory, the ruins of a 15th century Augustinian abbey – you can walk to the abbey from the castle along the coast, or drive to it.

Waterville Beach is a little further along the coast, a popular stretch of sand (and pebbles!) in summer.

Behind the beach is the colourful Waterville Village.

A small detour is needed to reach the Loher Cashel, a stone ringfort (cashel) and National Monument built around the 9th century AD and recently reconstructed. It’s also the site of Loher Cashel rock art. I don’t mention this to the rest of the family. By Day 11 of our Ireland trip they are no longer very amused by my little excursions to out-of-the-way rock art sites.

We continue past a couple of viewpoints along the Ring of Kerry, which provide a vantage point over Scarriff Island as we follow the coast.

As the road drops back to the coast it reaches Derrynane Beach, part of the Derrynane National Historic Park.

A slight detour takes us to Staigue Fort, one of the largest intact stone forts (or cahirs) in Ireland and one of the oldest in the country, dating back to between 300 and 400 BC. Built of stone without any mortar, the walls are up to 5.5m (18 ft) high and 4m (13 ft) thick at the base.

Although it’s more of a cascade than a waterfall, Sneem Falls would be the most photographed waterfall in Ireland, with a queue of people crossing the small bridge over the River Sneem.

We arrive in Kenmare in time for a dinner… and with enough time for a post-dinner hike in Killarney National Park to Torc Waterfall.

After almost a week of rain, the sun makes a most welcome appearance as it sets behind Muckross Lake; it’s a nice end to the day.

Day 12: Killarney National Park

I’m up early to climb Carrauntoohil, which is part of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks – it’s not actually within Killarney National Park but on private land.

I’m back in Kenmare by early afternoon for a scenic drive through Killarney National Park, the first national park in Ireland which was established when the Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Free State in 1932. Although many of the highest peaks are outside the park, Killarney National Park doesn’t disappoint with its photogenic combination of mountains, lakes, woodland and waterfalls.

If you’re approaching Killarney National Park from the south (as we are) you enter via Molls Gap (named after Moll Kissane, who ran a shebeen or unlicensed public house in the 1820s), a mountain pass known for its scenic views of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountains.

The Ring of Kerry route passes Looscaunagh Lough, soon reaching one of many vantage points over the park’s many lakes. (The Ring of Kerry section from Moll’s Gap to Killarney is regarded as one of the highlights of the route.)

One of the best known lookouts is Ladies View, its name coming from Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting who were stunned by beauty of Killarney National Park’s panoramic scenes during their Royal visit to Killarney in 1861.

Not signposted but well worth the short hike is Derrycunnihy Falls, a small but picturesque cascade.

The N71 Ring of Kerry winds around Mucross Lake and Lough Leane and past Torc Waterfall. Along the route is Mucross House – a 19th century Victorian mansion with extensive gardens, which is considered Kerry’s premier visitor attraction. It’s also the busiest place in Ireland we’ve encountered, and almost out of place in a national park. We have a quick look but don’t stop.

We also don’t stop in the town of Killarney, which would make a very convenient base to explore Killarney National Park, but is not a very attractive town. Another popular spot near Killarney is Ross Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Ireland which was built in the late 15th century by the local ruling clan (the O’Donoghues). The castle was amongst the last to surrender to Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads during the Irish Confederate Wars.

We’re at about the halfway point of our Killarney National Park scenic loop, as we return via a series of narrow and often window roads on the western side of Lough Leane. The highlight is The Gap of Dunloe, a stunning, narrow mountain pass carved by glaciers thousands of years ago, which separates the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and Purple Mountain ranges. There are more jarveys (a nickname for drivers of a horse-drawn carriage) and cyclists than cars along this road.

The Gap of Dunloe initially follows the River Loe, which connects five lakes: Coosaun Lough, Black Lake, Cushnavally Lake, Auger Lake, and Black Lough.

The road crosses the river a couple of times, including one picturesque old bridge known as the ‘Wishing Bridge’.

Next to an abandoned farmhouse we spot two red deer; Killarney National Park and the surrounding areas has the only red deer herd on mainland Ireland. The Irish elk and the red deer both became extinct in Ireland about 10,500 years ago, and the current red deer population are believed to have been brought from Britain across the North Channel by neolithic people around 3300 BC.

As the road ascends to the Head of the Gap of Dunloe, there are some great views back down the valley; on the other side of the pass is the Black Valley (also known as Cummeenduff) – notable for being the last place in Ireland to receive electricity when it was connected to the national grid in 1976.

The Black Valley has a sense of remoteness, with a few sheep and one car being the only signs of “civilisation”.

There are some more nice views as the road climbs out of the Black Valley and back to Molls Gap, completing our Killarney National Park Loop.

Day 13: Kenmare to Cork

Today’s our last day in Ireland; before starting our fairly short drive to Cork we explore Kenmare on foot – while Killarney would be a lot closer to the national park, Kenmare is one of the most photogenic towns we’ve stayed in. Hidden away on the edge of town is Cromwell’s Bridge: the single-arch stone bridge over the Finnihy River is thought to date back to the 11th century, .

The Kenmare Stone Circle (The Druid’s Circle) is one of the largest stone circles in south-west Ireland; it’s composed of 15 heavy boulders, with an impressive Boulder-Dolmen with a giant capstone (2m x 1.8m) in the middle.

As we head east to Cork, our first stop is Bonane Heritage Park, which has multiple well-preserved sites from the Stone, Bronze and Iron Age up to pre-Famine times. A 2km loop trail goes past a stone circle, a ringfort, standing stones and a fulacht fiadh, a burned mound thought to be used for cooking from 1500 to 500 BC. I found it a bit underwhelming. But a pleasant walk.

The Releagh Bridge is an impromptu stop; the graceful bridge with three arches is one of the highest stone bridges in Munster. Constructed in 1836, the bridge played a crucial role in linking Kenmare to Glengarriff which previously required a steep mountain route (either the Priest’s Leap or the Esk Bridle Path).

Next to the road is Molly Gullivan’s Visitor Centre, a 200-year-old Irish farmhouse and  traditional working farm which has a small shop and tea-room.

A historic, hand-cut tunnel under the Caha Mountain range marks the boundary between County Kerry and County Cork. The road descends from Caha Pass to the coast, where it passes Snave Pier as it follows the coastline.

Our last stop is Carriganass Castle (“The Castle on the Rock of the Waterfall”), a typical 16th-century Irish tower house that was most built around 1540 by Dermot O’Sullivan, a member of the O’Sullivan Beare sept (or clan).

From here we head to Cork Airport, where are flying to London for the last week of our holiday.

When to visit Ireland

It’s generally suggested that the shoulder seasons (April-May and September-October) are the best time times to visit Ireland, offering pleasant weather while avoiding the peak summer period. This period also has some of the lowest number of rainy days and lowest average rainfall. We visited in June/July, which has the advantage of long summer days – and if you avoid a handful of very touristy places there was never an issue with crowds.

Population Decline and Re-growth

You can’t really miss the thousands of abandoned farmhouses and castles as you travel through Ireland, or places like the Black Valley where a “relatively thriving community” prior to the 1800s was reduced to almost zero (although it has now increased back to about 70 people). From a peak of just over eight million people in 1841, the Great Famine (1845–1852) and mass emigration (primarily to the US, but also Australia and Canada) reduced the population of Ireland by almost half to about 4.5m in 1900. It was a sustained collapse at a time that most other European countries were growing.

It’s fascinating both in terms of the magnitude of the drop – the highest population decline in percentage terms of any country in the world in recent times – but also in that almost two hundred years later the population has not fully recovered. As a visitor the obvious signs of this population decline are the many abandoned castles and farms – about 20,780 derelict properties across the country in December 2023 according to Social Justice Ireland, which includes over 1,000 abandoned castles. It also makes Ireland the cheapest country in the world to buy a castle, if that’s on your bucket list…

On the other hand, the “Irish diaspora” has helped to preserve the Irish culture abroad and fuelled a global interest in Irish heritage.

“They’ve got one in Honolulu, they’ve got one in Moscow too
They got four of them in Sydney and a couple in Kathmandu
So whether you sing or pull a pint you’ll always have a job
‘Cause wherever you go around the world you’ll find an Irish pub.”

“The Irish Pub” by The High Kings