A road trip exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges to the north of Adelaide. The week-long itinerary includes several scenic drives, many bushwalks, and two Aboriginal rock art sites that highlight the area's natural beauty and historical significance.

You could spend months exploring the Flinders Ranges… but (this time) we only have week. It’s our second visit to the central Flinders Ranges, which is about five hours north of Adelaide, and the first time we are venturing another three hours further to the northern Flinders Ranges. The largest mountain range in South Australia, the Flinders Ranges stretch for over 430km from Port Pirie to Lake Callabonna and include seven national parks – including the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park and Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park.

…the Flinders Ranges is one of the most diverse regions of South Australia, and is undoubtedly one of Australia’s great tracts of scenic beauty.

Alisa Bunbury, 2002. Arid Arcadia Art of the Flinders Ranges

The Itinerary

It’s a pretty simple itinerary, as we only have a week:

  • Day 1 – drive from Adelaide to Wilpena
  • Days 2-3 – southern Flinders Ranges (staying at Rawnsley Park Station)
  • Days 4-6 – northern Flinders ranges (staying at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary)
  • Day 7 – drive from Arkaroola back to Adelaide.

Day 1: From City to Outback – Adelaide to Wilpena

It’s an easy drive from Adelaide up to Wilpena, and as we approach Hawker along the R.M. Williams Way we get our first view of the jagged peaks of the central Flinders Ranges. There are many routes you can take from Adelaide, almost all of which converge at Hawker – known as the hub or gateway to the Flinders Ranges.

The route we took was named after Reginald Murray (RM) Williams who had a strong association with the area: he was born at Belalie North near Jamestown, raised six children with his first wife in the Flinders Ranges, and in 1951 built a homestead on 55 hectares on the floodplains of Dry Creek in Yatala (next to the Yatala Labour Prison). When the land was compulsorily acquired in the late 1980s, Williams left South Australia for his Rockybar property in Eidsvold, Queensland and vowed never to return to South Australia.

The scenery gets more spectacular as we turn onto the Flinders Ranges Way at Hawker, with the Wilpena Pound Range (Akurra Ngami Range) which forms the forms the south-western wall of the Wilpena Pound directly in front of us.

We arrive at Rawnsley Park Station just before sunset, with the Chace Range to the east glowing in the later afternoon light.

Rawnsley Park Station is one of three non-camping options around Wilpena; we’re staying in one of the fully self-contained Eco-villas which offer plenty of space inside and spectacular views from the balcony.

Day 2: St Mary Peak, Arkaroo Rock and Wilpena lookouts

I’m up early for our first day in the Central Flinders Ranges to tackle my first bushwalk to St Mary Peak, which (if you combine the Inside Trail and Outside Trail) is the longest signposted day-walk in the area.

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St Mary Peak Loop
One of the most popular walks from Wilpena Pound, St Mary Peak (Ngarri Mudlanha) is the highest peak of the Flinders Ranges; spectacular views from Tanderra Saddle and the peak.
Distance: 22km loop (can also do it as a 14.6km return walk)
Grade: Easy/Moderate

I’m back by early afternoon, so we’ve got time for an afternoon drive to check out some of the lookouts around Wilpena Pound. Our first stop is Hucks Lookout, which is just off the main road – the Flinders Range Way – and offers a nice view of the Wilpena Pound Range to the west.

Far more impressive is Stokes Lookout, which offers a panoramic view over the Flinders Ranges, including the Wilpena Pound Range, Bunkers Range, Druid Range and Chace Range.

Next up is another short bushwalk that starts just off the Flinders Range Way, to one of two publicly accessible Aboriginal sites in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

IMG 1740 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Arkaroo Rock (Akurra Adnya)
A culturally significant Aboriginal rock art site, considered one of the best examples of Adnyamathanha rock art. The figures in the rock shelter include the two serpents who created Wilpena Pound, people, tally marks, animals and animal tracks.
Distance: 3.2km loop. Grade: Easy

We’ve still got time to find a good vantage point to catch today’s sunset, so we head back up Flinders Range Way towards Rawnsley Park Station, spotting a couple of eagles on the way.

We drive out along Martins Hill Road to Pugilist Hill, heading directly towards the Chace Range which is glowing in the late afternoon sun.

A fairly rough track heads up to the top of Pugilist Hill, which got its name after two Rawnsley Park station hands had a fist fight on top of this hill in the early 1930s. The lookout offers 360-degree views, with the sun setting over the Elder Range (and Rawnsley Bluff) to the west, as well as the Chace Range to the east.

We’re blessed with a spectacular sunset, and this is as good a place as anywhere to watch the sun slipping under the horizon (unfortunately it’s really windy, but that does bring a reprieve from the incessant flies…).

Day 3: Rawnsley Bluff bushwalk and a Flinder Ranges scenic drive

I’m up early again for my second bushwalk in the central Flinders Ranges, this time starting on the Rawnsley Park Station property – so it’s a quick 3min drive to the trailhead.

IMG 1977 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Rawnsley Bluff
A short but steep climb up to Rawnsley Bluff Ridge, with great views from all the way along the ridge and Rawnsley Bluff at the end.
Distance: 10.8km return
Grade: Easy/Moderate

Central Flinders Ranges Scenic Drive – Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorge

Returing to our villa well before lunch, we’ve got plenty of time for an afternoon drive out through Bunyeroo Gorge and Brachina Gorge, and then back via the Moralana Scenic Drive.

The unsealed Bunyeroo Road is initially well graded as it heads north off the Flinders Range Way. Our first brief stop is the historic Yanyanna Hut, “the central point in the Aroona pastoral run and now the site of a ruined pug and pine shepherd’s hut from the 1850s and a still standing iron shelter from 1937”. It’s also one of the campsites along they Heysen Trail.

Soon after Yanyanna Hut, the Bunyeroo Road enters the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, and the scenery gets a lot more dramatic as the road descends via Razorback Ridge to Bunyeroo Valley… Bunyeroo Valley Lookout provides the first viewpoint on the descent.

The road continues to descend Razorback Ridge…

…soon reaching the Razorback Lookout, which provides an even more spectacular view of the Heysen Range (Akurra Yardli). The highest mountain is Saint Mary Peak, and next to it Mount Ohlssen Bagge (formerly called Mount John).

There’s one last (unnnamed) lookout with a picnic table, before the road reaches the bottom of the valley.

Bunyeroo Road passes through Bunyeroo Gorge, one of the main gorges which runs through the Heysen Range towards Lake Torrens. The name Bunyeroo was probably taken from the Aboriginal ‘panjoru’ meaning ‘salt bush’ and applied to pastoral lease no. 392, which was established in 1855. The road follows the creek bed for a while, so it can be a bit rough and rocky in places. A couple of signposted walks start/finish at the Bunyeroo Trailhead – Bunyeroo Gorge Geology Walk (8km) and the Wilcolo Circuit (9.3km) – the only way to really appreciate the gorge is on foot, as the road doesn’t follow the gorge.

Not far after the Bunyeroo Gorge trailhead is Twin Gums Lookout, which has a couple of picnic tables ansd some shade from the large eucalypt trees – and a nice view of the Heyson Range through the trees. No surprise really that the lookout is named after two large eucalypts that stand opposite each other along Bunyero Road (just beyond the lookout turnoff). 

Bunyeroo Road ends at Brachina Gorge Road, where you have two options: turn right which takes you back to Flinders Range Way, or head left to The Outback Highway. We turn left, and are soon in Brachina Gorge, which is named after the Aboriginal word ‘vachina’, meaning ‘cranky’ and referring to an argument between birds over a grinding stone.

Brachina Gorge with its many angular, sawtooth ridges is more spectacular than Bunyeroo Gorge, only because the road weaves its way through the gorge (unlike Bunyeroo Gorge where only the bushwalking trails enter the gorge). The road is rocky again as it follows the bed of the creek through the gorge. As well as some impressively large trees and and the gorge-ous scenery, this was the only place where there were still some pools of water, making it a good spot for wildlife-watching.

Within Brachina Gorge is a viewing area for a Yellow-footed Rock-wallaby colony, the largest rock-wallaby species in Australia. The distribution and abundance of this species has declined dramatically and the yellow-footed Rock-wallaby is now found only in protected areas that are actively managed to abate threats (initially from hunting, and now introduced predators).

There’s more nice scenery as we continue westward along Brachina Gorge Road.

There is a signage board and lookout (Brachina Gorge West Information Bay) where Brachina Gorge Road leaves the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, with a nice view of the Heysen Range.

There’s still another 12km of unsealed road before we reach The Outback Highway, but this last section of the Brachina Gorge Road is well-graded and mostly dead-straight.

Turning left onto The Outback Highway, we’re only on the sealed road for 27km, before we turn left again onto Moralana Gorge Road.

Central Flinders Ranges Scenic Drive – Moralana Scenic Drive (28km)

The Moralana Scenic Drive traverses the Arkaba Station and Merna Mora Station country between the Elder Range and Wilpena Pound. As soon as you turn onto the unsealed Moralana Gorge Road there are views of Sidney Hill and the low Bunbinyunna Range directly ahead, and behind it the Wilpena Pound Range (Akurra Ngami) with its taller peaks – Dorothy Peak, Harold Hill and Greig Peak.

It’s a very picturesque drive, with cattle fences and the occasional windmill the only reminder that you’re driving through pastoral leases and not national park.

Next to Moralana Gorge Road are the historic Old Cueing Yards, which were built in the 1870’s to hold the bullocks for “cueing” (shoeing). The bullocks brought large native pines from the Flinders Ranges, used in the construction of the Overland Telegraph Line.

The road crosses a few creeks, which are usually dry but sustain some enormous eucalypt trees – the largest and widest creek is Moralana Creek.

As the Moralana Scenic Drive gets closer to the Flinders Range Way, you can see the entire Wilpena Pound Range (Akurra Ngami), as well as the more distant Chace Range and Druid Range.

There are some great views of the Rawnsley Bluff and the southern end of the Wilpena Pound Range.

To the west is the Red Range, and behind it the Elder Range and Mount Aleck, the highest peak.

We stop to photograph a large flock of galahs, just before reaching the end of Moralana Gorge Road / Moralana Scenic Drive where it meets the Flinders Ranges Way.

It’s taken us most of the afternoon for our 140km scenic drive, leaving us with just enough time to check out a few more lookouts before returning to Rawnsley Park Station.

First stop is Arkaba Hill Lookout, which is right next to the Flinders Ranges Way and offers a good view of the Arkaba Hills, including “Sugarloaf”, or Little Mt Fuji, and the southern end of the Elder Range.

Next is the Elder Range Lookout, which not surprisingly offers a similar perspective of the Elder Range, as well as a great view of the Wilpena Pound Range and Chace Range. Of these two nearby lookouts, this one offers better views.

Our last lookout of the day is Station Hill Lookout on Rawnsley Park Station, which offers a great view of the Wilpena Pound Range (Akurra Ngami), as well as the Chace Range and Elder Range.

Day 4: Mount Ohlssen Bagge and Rawnsley Park Station to Arkaroola

I’m up early for the last (but certainly not least!) bushwalk to Mount Ohlssen Bagge, before we leave Rawnsley Park Station and head to Arkaroola.

Mount Ohlssen Bagge is the “easiest” of the Flinders Ranges peaks, and while it still involves a strenuous climb, with an early start I can be back at Rawnsley Park Station by 10am.

IMG 2418 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Mount Ohlsse Bangge
Mount Ohlssen Bagge is one of three peaks in the Wilpena Pound Range that has a trail to the top. The relatively short but steep walk offers spectacular, 360-degree views from the summit.
Distance: 7.1km return
Grade: Easy/Moderate

Rawnsley Park Station to Arkaroola (315km / 4:40hr)

Today involves another long but scenic drive, as we head further north to the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. There are a few routes you can take; we’re going via the Glass Gorge and Parachilna. Our first stop along the Flinders Ranges Way is the Cazneaux Tree, a Eucalyptus camaldulensis or River Red Gum The enormous tree was made famous by photographer Harold Cazneaux, who photographed it in 1937 in a picture entitled The Spirit of Endurance. The tree is listed by the National Trust of South Australia as significant tree number 239 on the trust’s Register of Significant Trees for “its outstanding aesthetic beauty”.

This giant gum tree stands in solitary grandeur on a lonely plateau in the arid Flinders Ranges, South Australia, grown up from a sapling through the years, and long before the shade from its giant limbs ever gave shelter from heat to white men. The passing of the years has left it scarred and marked by the elements – storm, fire, water – unconquered, it speaks to us from a Spirit of Endurance.

Adding to the beauty of the tree itself is the Heysen Range behind the tree.

We drive past the Great Wall of China which is to the east; the rocky ridge line is named from its resemblance to the original. (You can continue down unsealed road to access a closer viewpoint, and its possible to climb up to the top of the ridge to get a better view of the wall-like ridge-top.)

Our next, early-lunch-stop is the town of Blinman, which is normally fairly quiet but is bustling over the Easter weekend. Tours of the historic Blinman Mine or Wheal Blinman as it was called in 1862 are a local attraction; the copper mine operated between 1862 and 1907. The cafe/bakery makes great pies and pastries! Blinman is also the starting point for a scenic drive through the Glass Gorge.

Blinman to Parachilna via Glass Gorge

The Glass Gorge Road was the original route used until 1889 to cart copper ingots from Blinman to the railway at Parachilna.

The road partly follows a winding creek bed, but is mostly well-graded and an easier drive than the road through Bunyeroo Gorge and Brachina Gorge.

There are almost no places to stop along Glass Gorge Road and only one camping site – but the scenery gets better as we continue along the road.

After passing through Glass Gorge – which isn’t as dramatic or picturesque as many of the other gorges we visited – more mountain ranges emerge as the road bears south through the Oratunga Creek Valley.

A winding section of road descends into Paralchina Gorge, where it meets Paralchina Gorge Road.

From the junction of Glass Gorge Road and Paralchina Gorge Road you could turn left to form a loop, returning to Blinman through Paralchina Gorge and via Angorichina Tourist Village (it’s best to do the loop anti-clockwise, so you’re driving towards the mountains on the Glass Gorge Road). Or turn right to continue to Paralchina.

Paralchina Gorge Road quickly leave the gorge behind, with most of the road dead-straight to Paralchina.

Paralchina to Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Paralchina is home to the Prairie Hotel, a “haven for food enthusiasts” which serves roo fillet, camel sausages and emu rissoles as part of of its Feral Feast Banquet. Named after the Aboriginal word ‘patajilnda’, meaning ‘place of peppermint gum trees’, Paralchina was once a maintenance station for the railway between Port Augusta and Leigh Creek, and an important siding supplying Blinman and surrounding areas. It now has an official, permanent population of two people.

From Paralchina we continue heading north for another 70km, before turning off The Outback Highway onto Gammon Ranges Road. This is one of the access points for the Strzelecki Track and Cameron Corner.

Gammon Ranges Road passes through Finke, where a sign commemorates Auntie Gertrude, the seventh child of Jack and Alice Coulthard – Jack was a Wilyaru (fully initiated man) Yara Urngi (medicine man). The next town is Nepabunna, a small Adnyamathanha community that was originally established as the Nepabunna Mission in 1931. Just after Nepabunna, the road enters the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park.

The road passes a number of small hills and crosses a few dry creeks as it heads in an easterly direction through the national park.

After passing through Italowie Gap, Gammon Ranges Road descends towards Italowie Creek, providing a (very) distant view of Lake Frome – the salt lake appearing as a thin white line on the horizon.

After passing the junction with North Flinders Road, we turn left onto Arkaroola Road, passing next to Balcanoona Bluff. We’re soon at Ngawarla Wami (Echo Bend), which was once a permanent waterhole along Balcanoona Creek. It was an important site for the Adnyamathanha people, and part of their Creation mythology.

Unakanha was a young girl who lived with her parents and bother at Virlkundhunha (Balcanoona). One day Unakanha went down to Ngawarla Wami for a swim. After her swim she sat down under the shade of a tree and watched some of the bush animals come down to the watering hole for a drink. After a while, Unakanha fell asleep.

While she slept, a big Marlu or spirit kangaroo came to drink at the waterhole. When the kangaroo saw the sleeping Unakanha, it picked her up and put her in its pouch. When Unakanha failed to return to camp at Virlkundhunha, her parents and brother became worried and started to search. They finally found Unakanha’s tracks at Ngawarla Wami and realised she had been taken by the Marlu.

We’re getting close to today’s destination, as we drive north along Arkaroola Road – disturbing the afternoon nap of a kangaroo.

Ahead of us as we approach Arkaroola Village are some of the mountain ranges of the Arkaroola Protection Area (a large area to the east of Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park).

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is situated on 610 square kilometres of freehold and pastoral lease land, bordering Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park. After several failed attempts at agriculture (the property was fenced by 1935) and uranium exploration (which resulted in some good roads being constructed) Arkaroola was purchased by geologist Reg Sprigg in 1967.

Sprigg began the conversion of Arkaroola to a wildlife sanctuary, and became a trustee of the World Wildlife Fund in 1979 for his work in protecting the yellow-footed rock-wallaby. Arkaroola is one of Australia’s most isolated, self-supporting villages, with its own power generation and water collection systems.

Day 5: A Long Bushwalk and a Short Drive

For the the first of our two full days at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, I’ve booked myself on the 9am Arkaroola shuttle service which takes guests to the trailhead of two nearby bushwalks – there is one more bushwalk which you can do as a loop walk starting from the resort, and another that requires a AWD/4WD transfer to the trailhead at Welcome Mine.

IMG 2746 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Oppaminda Nudlamutana
The longest day-walk near Arkaroola Village, this one-way bushwalk traverses a number different landscapes, with stunning views from the top of Mount Warren Hastings.
Distance: 15.8km on-way
Grade: Moderate

In the afternoon we go for a short drive back along Arkaroola Road, passing the site of what was the original Arkaroola Village until 1968 (now a private residence).

We’re sharing the road with an Emu Family, who eventually head off into the bush.

On the way back to Arkaroola Village we make a detour out to the Arkaroola Waterhole, but turn back just before the last 4WD section (although we have a 4WD it’s a rental car, and the road that follows the creekbed to the waterhole is very rocky.) On the way are some nice views of Dinnertime Hill ahead of us, while driving back towards the village we get a good view of Acacia Ridge.

There’s still time after our short drive for a quick bushwalk, with hopefully some nice sunset views…

IMG 2890 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Griselda Hill
A short but steep trail up Griselda Hill (just above Arkaroola Village) offers stunning 360-degree views. The very last part of the trail involves a scramble to the rocky summit.
Distance: 1.6km return
Grade: Easy/Moderate

The top of Griselda Hill is a pretty good spot to watch the sun set over Arkatoola Village…

I’m back at the village just in time for the daily feeding of the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby, which attracts a number of these otherwise elusive and near threatened macropods.

Doug Sprigg makes a brief appearance on most evenings to provide some information on the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby (apparently the ones at Arkaroola are hand-painted), and to tell the touching story of Cato. “Cato was picked up and dropped by an eagle early in life, and was nursed back to health by Vicki-Lee Wilson and her partner and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary director Doug Sprigg… Since then, the yellow-footed rock wallaby had been visiting the couple for extra food.”

Day 6: A Long (Scenic) Drive and a Short Bushwalk

We’re booked on the infamous Arkaroola 4WD Ridgetop Tour, which has operated since 1969 and continues to attract rave reviews, with a 4.9/5 score on TripAdvisor: On this tour, you’ll discover the history of the Ridgetop’s granite and sedimentary rock that settled in an ancient sea nearly 1,600 million years ago – almost a billion years before much of the rest of the Flinders Ranges.

Arkaroola Ridge Top Tour

Setting out 8am on the morning tour (there’s also an afternoon tour) we initially follow Wywhyana Creek and past the Mount Oliphant Viewpoint (which is directly in front of the 624m Mount Oliphant) as we head towards the Arkaroola Waterhole.

Turning left just after the 4WD track that goes to the Arkaroola Waterhole, we pass through a locked gate and start heading north along the Arkaroola Ridgetop Tour track. The tour is done in an open top Landcruiser, which means with a bit of contorting you can get photos of the spectacular landscape throuig the side and back of the 4WD.

The first stop on the Ridge Top Tour is Coulthards Lookout, which offers a nearly-360-degree view over the Arkaroola Protection Area, including Radium Ridge, The Armchair, Mount Painter, Barraranna Hill, Acacia Ridge, Arkanoola Village and Mount Warren Hastings.

The 4WD track continues along the ridges, which proved to be the easiest route into this rugged wilderness when the mining companies looked to find a way in – but there’s many steep descents and ascent between the ridgetops.

There’s a particularly rocky section as we pass through Sunshine Pound and follow a section of Radium Creek. The track is littered with large chunks of broken quartz crystals from Mount Gee, a mountain composed of quartz crystal threaded with veins of haematite and layers of schist.

Our second stop is at Split Rock Lookout, opposite Radium Ridge and The Armchair, and offering a great view of two immense granite tors, Mount Painter and many more peaks.

The last section is the bumpiest, as the trail gets even more rougher and the ups and downs between the ridges even steeper…

…and the scenery gets even more spectacular, which partly (but not completely) alleviates the discomfort of hanging onto the bench seats as the Land Cruisers grind their way slowly up (or down) the ridges at an angle of close to 30 degrees. I vaguely recall our guide explaining that the 4WDs can handle inclines of up to 35 degrees…

Looking back towards Split Rock Lookout, you can see the trail descending one ridge…

…as it approaches the Streitberg Ridge and Mout Ward.

The last couple of kilometres features some incredible scenery as the Arkaroola Ridge Top trail zig-zags through the harsh terrain, crossing a couple more ridges as it continues north.

Finally we reach our destination: with the track stretching below into the distance, we drive up an improbably steep incline to a most extraordinary lookout!

Sillers Lookout is where our journey ends, on a small bluff with incredible 360-degree views from The Armchair and Radium Ridge to the west, Mount Ward to the south, Freeling Heights to the north and the salt pan of Lake Frome way out to the east. Combined with tea/coffee and some lamingtons that are just as good as the view, there can’t be many places better for morning tea…

There’s even a bit of wildlife; we spot a wallaroo as we drive up, and I walk back down the track to get a photo. (Walking down the 4WD track from Sillers Lookout gives you an even better sense of its steepness – it takes some care to descend on foot without slipping over on the scree-covered and steep incline.)

Having enjoyed a few lamingtons and the views, we hop into the Land Cruisers for the 1:45min drive back; although it’s the same route, we’re seeing the spectacular scenery from a different angle.

There’s even a bit more wildlife, with our guide spotting a Mallee Ringneck Parrot in the trees by the road, and then a Central Bearded Dragon.

We’re back at Arkaroola Village pretty much on time at 12:30pm. The high praise for the Arkaroola Ridge Top is very well deserved, and it’s one of the highlights of our Arkaroola stay (my only advice would be to try and pick a tour that’s not fully booked – having ten people in the back of each Land Cruiser makes it a little cramped when you’re sitting in the car for almost four hours).

A Short Afternoon Drive

There’s plenty of the day left, so after lunch we jump in our car for another short drive; I’m keen to explore part of the McTaggart Track (which is off Arkaroola Road) to look for a rock art site (which I don’t manage to locate). Along the way we spot an eagle that’s holding something tasty…

A bit further along the road are a couple of emus (they normally live in pairs or family groups).

Leaving Arkaroola Road (with the Gammon Ranges stretching out in front of us) we drive for a couple of kilometres down the Mount McTaggart Track, which goes around the back of Mount McTaggart and towards Ilinawortina Pound.

On the way back, I’m dropped off along Arkaroola Road about 6km before Arkaroola Village, for the Acacia Ridge bushwalk.

IMG 3565 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Acacia Ridge
A one-way bushwalk to/from Arkaroola Village, which follows Acacia Ridge and offers 360-degree views from the top of the ridge.
Distance: 5.6km one-way
Grade: Easy/Moderate

As well as boasting spectacular scenery, Arkaroola is an International Dark-Sky Sanctuary – and became only the second certified Dark Sky Sanctuary in Australia. They offer various Astronomy Experiences, including an Observatory Tour in a full-sized astronomical dome. Although we don’t do any of the tours – and I haven’t brought the right photography gear to get the best astronomy photos – I head out a short distance from our room to get a few photos of the stars.

Day 7: The Drive from Arkaroola back to Adelaide

Our last day involves the most driving, as we make our way back from Arkaroola to Adelaide airport, for our flight home. There are some nice cloud formations in the sky, as we head out just before daybreak.

There are also lots of kangaroos about (and an eagle), so we’re taking the first hour of driving pretty slow; it’s not the best time to be on the road.

Next we spot a family of emus…

…and then some more kangaroos sharing the road with us.

We’re heading back towards the southern Flinders Ranges via North Flinders Way (instead of Gammon Ranges Road, which is the way came up).

Both routes have great sccenery and are a similar length – although the North Flinders Way is slightly shorter and quicker then the Gammon Ranges Road.

To the east are some pretty impressive cloud formations – but no sign of rain. We are still a fair way north of Goyder’s Line, a line that runs roughly east–west across South Australia and represents the boundary between those areas that receive good rainfall and those experiencing drought. Mapped by George Goyder in 1865, who was then Surveyor-General of the colony, Goyder’s Line became a National Trust of Australia Heritage Icon in 2003. No other Australian state has a surveyed line equivalent to Goyder’s Line.

I have a record of the rainfall for 26 years which showed that 19 of them were too small to make it possible for a drop of wheat or hay to be grown there… My [previous] warnings have been disregarded. The run was cut up into blocks and men, having little or no knowledge of the climate, took up some of them. The last two years prove how woefully the poor fellows have been disappointed. How much longer will it take our legislators to learn that all the country north of ‘Goyder’s Line’ is only fit for pastoral purposes…?

J.H. Browne
Goyders Line within South Australia A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

North Flinders Way passes Wertaloona Station, one of South Australia’s largest pastoral land holdings which is 255,000ha in size. It’s only changed hands four times since being established as a pastoral lease in the 1850s and last sold for $10.6m in 2021.

As we continue south along the North Flinders Way, the Wearing Hills rise up from the otherwise flat landscape, with the road crossing the mountain range through the Wearing Gorge.

We make a short detour to Mount Chambers Gorge, a camping site and Aboriginal rock art site that’s located on on the Wertaloona Station property, but open to the public.

IMG 3985 LR A week exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges

Chambers Gorge Rock Art Site
Mount Chambers Gorge in the central Flinders Ranges is a significant cultural site for the Adnyamathanha people. The walls of the gorge feature extensive rock art with both engraved and some painted figures. The rock art is accessed via a short walk down the main gorge.

Once back on North Flinders Way, we spot another wedgetailed eagle, high above us in a tree.

There’s more nice scenery as we pass through Eregunda Valley and the hills around Angorichina as we approach Blinman.

We’re at Blinman for an early lunch – from here it’s an easy 5:30min drive to Adelaide airport via Hawker. Somewhere around Goyder’s Line, as we drive south, it starts to rain…

References and More Information

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A road trip exploring the spectacular Flinders Ranges to the north of Adelaide. The week-long itinerary includes several scenic drives, many bushwalks, and two Aboriginal rock art sites that highlight the area's natural beauty and historical significance.
Svalbard, located in the Arctic circle north of Norway, offers spectacular scenery and wildlife. There's also a huge range of activities on offer.
An overview of what to do and see in Milford Sound, with a focus on short walks. Includes the drive from Te Anau to Milford Sounds (and the "must see" attractions) as well as the Milford Sound boat cruise.
The best of Bryce Canyon in 24 hours, from spectacular locations to watch sunrise and sunset to a long hiking loop around the canyon.
Ten days in Malaysia, featuring a few days on the Kinabatangan River in Borneo and five days on Gaya Island near Kota Kinabalu
Ten days on Flinders Island, exploring the island by car, hiking a few peaks and bays and meeting some of the local wildlife. This remote island offers pristine beaches and some spectacular scenery.
A drive through Death Valley and three short hikes in Death Valley that explore some of the different landscapes, from the almost 6000-foot high viewpoint at Dante's View to the lowest point in North America.
A ten day driving trip through Senja, Lyngen and the Lofoten Islands in Norway. The area features spectacular alpine scenery, beautiful fjords and photogenic villages.
A six-day / three-camp safari in Botswana staying in the Okavango Delta and Chobe, before a last night at Victoria Falls.
A three week trip by public transport through central and southern Honshu, including Tokyo, Kyoto, Hakone, Hiroshima and the Northern Alps.
A two-week self-driving holiday around Namibia: the first part of our trip takes us to four different desert lodges, and the incredible Etosha National Park. Namibia combines an abundance of wildlife with beautiful and varied scenery.
A two week trip though the south-west of Ireland, exploring the verdant countryside, rugged coastline and rich history. The road trip includes scenic drives, picturesque villages, hiking trails - and a lot of castles!
Maria Island offers a unique combination of abundant wildlife, Australian convict and early industrial history and multi-day bushwalking opportunities. A four-day itinerary takes us to the far southern end of Maria Island as well to the summits of Mt Maria (711m) and Bishop and Clerk (620m), and to the Fossil Cliffs by bike.

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