There’s no gentle introduction to this bushwalk: after crossing a short patch of lantana and weeds next to the road, our group led by Yuri begins the steep ascent up to the ridge along the Gunderman Peninsula. Setting a brisk pace, Yuri is soon lost in the scrub as he heads relentlessly up the side of the ridge.
About halfway up there are a few minor cliff lines, which we easily find a route through.
A few easy scrambles are required, as we pass some weathered sandstone caves and overhangs.
We’re soon on top of the cliffs, and on the final leg of our ascent to the top of the ridge. The second half of the 150m climb is less steep, but covered in prickly scrub and what I thought was native tobacco plants – but Yuri corrected me to say it’s Astrotricha floccosa. Known as the flannel leaf the generic name comes from the Greek, meaning “star hairs”, and it’s known for its ability to provoke a severe sneezing reaction.
From the top of the ridge there are sweeping views over the Hawkesbury River, or Deerubbin in the Dharug language, which translates to “wide, deep water”. On the opposite side of the river is Laughtondale and in the far distance to the right is the town of Spencer. Almost directly above us is a telecommunications tower, which somewhat unusually has no access road – it would have been constructed by helicopters landing on the narrow ridge-top.
After a short break we resume our journey, now following the narrow ridge, with frequent views over the Hawkesbury River to the west.
We make pretty good progress, with the scrub mostly chest-high but not very thick, and a few easy scrambles as we negotiate our way along the often rocky ridge-top.
There are many rock platforms and outcrops to enjoy a quick morning tea, before continuing.
A rock platform on the edge of the cliff offers another sweeping view of the Hawkesbury River, named by Governor Arthur Phillip in June 1789 to honour Charles Jenkinson, the 1st Earl of Liverpool and Baron of Hawkesbury. The river quickly became a key agricultural hub and transport route from the early 1790s, with sailing boats making their way up to Windsor. The rapid expansion of farming along the Hawkesbury River resulted in a some of the first violent conflicts between the settlers and the Dharug people, who found their access to the river and their food supply blocked by farms.
It’s pleasant walking along the ridge, as we gradually exchange river views for weathered rock formations.
After about three kilometres along the ridge, it’s time to bid farewell to our ridge, as we traverse a gully to reach Flat Rocks Ridge.
It’s a fairly easy descent; at the bottom is a very picturesque (unnamed) creek where we fill up our water bottles.
The ascent up the other side of the valley looks a bit trickier on the LIDAR map, with multiple cliff lines that need to be negotiated. But through either skill, luck or both (I’ll say mostly skill, in case Yuri reads this trip report!) we zig-zag our way up through a number of slots to reach the top of the next ridge.
It’s easy and pleasant bushwalking again, as we follow a spur off the main Flat Rocks Ridge.
The ridge undulates and varies between fairly open eucalpytus forest ans rock platforms. The Flat Rocks Ridge was thought to be a Dharug ceremonial ground, and the area has over fifty Aboriginal rock art sites that were recorded in the 1950s and 1960 Our route takes us past what was documented as Groups 1-6, although most of the engravings sites are now very weathered and hard to find.
We explore a few rock platforms without seeing any engraving, before we find Group 3, which has multiple engravings and a pothole with grinding grooves.
Continuing north-east we traverse many more rock platfotms – small and some enormous – which makes it obvious how Flat Rocks Ridge got its name.
The last, enormous rock platform is Group 6, the only signposted Flat Rocks Ridge engraving site, which has has a flock of emus, two kangaroo hunts, ancestral beings (including a huge Baiame) and an equally huge stingray.
Group 6 is also the end of our mostly off-track route; from here there is still another 4.5km to Mill Creek – but all on-track. The rough bushwalking track drops down into a small gully via slots in several small cliff-lines, crossing a small creek at the bottom.
Climbing gently back up the other side of the gully, there are some beautiful sections of open forest.
The very last leg of our Gunderman Peninsula to Mill Creek walk is the very excitingly-named “11km walking track”. I’m not entirely sure why it’s called the 11km walking track as it’s about 8km in length… or just over 3km for us as we’re only doing half the loop.
Regardless of the actual length, it’s a surprisingly picturesque trail that would make for a very easy and pleasant half-day walk.
As the trail descends along a tributary of Mill Creek it passes some nice overhangs and crosses a clear running creek.
There’s a final creek crossing as the water starts getting a bit deeper, with a few shallow pools where you could cool off on a warm day. We emerge at Mill Creek just as the light begins to fade, almost exactly ten hours after starting our bushwalk.
It’s a relatively long off-track bushwalk – my GPS indicating a distance of about 16km – but most of the terrain along the ridges is (by off track walking standards!) quite easy.
Getting to the Gunderman Peninsula to Mill Creek bushwalk
This bushwalk requires a car-shuffle, starting (or ending) along Wisemans Ferry Road 14.2km (15min) from the ferry access road, where there is a wide shoulder that accommodates 3-4 cars. The other end of the walk is the Mill Creek Picnic Area, which is the starting point for the Grass Tree Circuit and the 11km Walking Track (7.8km / 10min from the ferry).
More information
- Hawkesbury City Council – The Hawkesbury: A thematic history [PDF]
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