While I prefer to avoid the more popular trails in the Blue Mountains, I’ve been wanting to photograph some of the waterfalls along the Federal Pass and Amphitheatre Track – and to visit the not-so-secret Leura Infinity Pool. A few days of rain presents an opportunity for this surprisingly enjoyable loop walk, which starts from Cliff Drive on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk. Near the start of the track is the Flat Rock Lookout and Echo Tree Lookout, which both offer a nice view over the Jamison Valley.
Federal Pass / Fern Bower Track
I’m on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk for less than a hundred metres, before turning onto the Federal Pass – which is also called the Fern Bower Track along this section. The trail passes another lookout (the Jamieson Lookout), before it starts descending steeply into the valley.
Opened in 1900, the historic Federal Pass descends through Fern Bower to Leura Forest, before continuing past the Scenic Railway to the base of the Golden Stairs at Narrow Neck.
The track descends via a never-ending series of wooden steps and steel staircases, as it follows Linda Creek past a few small cascades.
The first named waterfall along the Federal Pass track is Lila Falls, which is on the right-hand side of the track just before the junction with the Amphitheatre Track.
Although I’ll turn onto the Amphitheatre Track to complete my waterfall loop, for now I continue descending along the Federal Pass track.
The next small waterfall is quite pictursque, but doesn’t have a name – although it is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Lila Falls.
The second named waterfall is Linda Falls, which is the most picturesque of the falls along the Federal Pass.
The track continues to descend to reach Marguerite Cascades, which is also quite photogenic – but while the lower cascade is next to the track, the upper cascade requires a bit of an off-track scramble to reach.
The Federal Pass crosses Linda Creek, before veering to the along the valley Leura Forest. From here you could continue underneath Echo Point and the Three Sisters, ascending the Furber Steps or taking the Scenic Railway up to make a much longer loop. But, I’m heading back up the many steps to take the Amphitheatre Track.
Amphitheatre Track
It’s a surprisingly quick ascent despite the many steps and stairs, as I’m not stopping every few minutes to take photos… I’m soon at the junction with the Amphitheatre Track, which follows the base of the cliffs to the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls.
The track soon reaches the bottom of a tall cliff, with views out over the Jamison Valley.
The track is named after these cliffs: a semi-circular part of the escarpment, described in 1893 as “an enormous semi-circular bend in the wall of rock” (Katoomba Times). The track follows the base of these cliffs; it’s an abrupt change from the cool and shaded valley.
Soon the track drops slightly into a small grotto, still below the towering cliffs which are barely visibly above tall ferns and Coachwood trees.
Leaving the foot of the First Fall and bearing westward, we soon reach that scene of rare beauty and impressiveness, The Amphitheatre. This we may fittingly call the heart of Leura. The great rock arches over a huge grotto filled with the loveliest of ferns of all sizes, from the tiniest varieties nestling in the crevices of the rocks to towering, spreading tree-ferns, rising in tall and majestic beauty. Here one may sit and drink in a full draught of delight.
Australian Town and Country Journal, Sat 26 Nov 1898
It’s only a short distance and a flight of (steel) steps to Leura Falls Creek.
The Amphitheatre Track crosses Leura Falls Creek above some small cascades, and below the base of the Bridal Veil Falls, which is a little further upstream.
Although it’s not an official track, you can continue along the well-worn path along Leura Falls Creek (some of it is even paved, as the path was originally used to construct a sewage outlet for the Leura Sewage Treatment Plant) to a cliff-top swimming hole.
The Leura Infinity Pool, as it’s most commonly called, is a natural pool on the edge of the cliffs, which has become increasingly popular. It’s best avoided on weekends – and you probably don’t want to swim here after rain (although the sewerage plant was decommissioned in the late 1980s). The water tumbles over the edge of the pool as Leura Falls (you can visit the base of the waterfall via the Lindeman Track).
Another informal trail heads above the creek and takes you to a vantage point above the Leura Infinity Pool. From here you get a birds-eye view of Leura Falls directly below, and Mount Solitary in the middle of the Jamison Valley.
Once back on the Amphitheatre Track, there’s a gentle ascent to the base of Bridal Veil Falls, which is a spectacular sight.
The Amphitheatre Track ascends steeply as it climbs out of the shaded valley, with lots of steps and stairs through a rainforest of ferns and tall Coachwood trees.
At the top of the escarpment, the Amphitheatre Track meets the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, and a very short side-track leads to Evelyns Lookout.
Prince Henry Cliff Walk
The last section of the loop is along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which follows the escarpment just below the top, and is a very pleasant and easy walk.
A side-track to Bridal Veil Lookout provides an aerial view of Bridal Veil Falls.
Just after the side-track to Bridal Veil Lookout is another, slightly longer, side-track that descends to Copelands Lookout.
Copelands Lookout offers a sweeping view over the Jamison Valley and Mount Solitary.
It’s not far to the turn-off to the last lookout – Fossil Rock – which is less than 100m from the Prince Henry Cliff Walk. (If you’re short on time, you’ll get the same view from here as Copelands Lookout with a little less effort!)
Fossil Rock Lookout is only a few minutes from Cliff Drive, which completes the relatively but scenic short loop. Although you can easily do this bushwalk in a couple of hours, you may want to allow 2-3 hours if you’re photographing the waterfalls or having a swim at the Leura Infinity Pool.
Getting to Amphitheatre Track and Federal Pass
There’s a couple of starting points for this walk: Cliff Drive near the old Solitary Restaurant, where there is a parking area, or the Leura Cascades Picnic Area (which makes it a slightly longer loop). The Leura Cascades Picnic Area is about a 1.4km walk from Leura Station and the best option if using public transport, while Cliff Drive is best if driving.
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