While overshadowed by the very popular Mount Batur and the much more challenging Mount Agung (which is the highest of Bali’s volcanic peaks), Mount Batukaru (or Gunung Batukaru) offers a challenging and relatively uncrowded jungle hike through dense rainforest. The most common of several Mount Batukaru summit routes start on the western side of the mountain at Pura Malen, a Shiva temple.
A small fee is payable at the temple (25,000 IDR in 2026) but despite being on my own, there was no inflated “tourist price” or any suggestion that I needed a guide. The very obvious Batukaru track starts with a steep flight of steps, before ascending more gently past some farming plots.
The “gentle” doesn’t last long… the eroded track soon gets very steep and requires some (easy) scrambling where storms have carved out deep channels.
At about 1,400m elevation is “Pos 1, the first rest area which also has a small shrine.
The next section starts with a fairly gentle gradient, before returning to a consistently steep incline.
Unlike the first couple of kilometres, there is almost no scrambling required in this section.
While Pos 1 has a flat area, Pos 2 (1690m) has a few scattered rocks to sit on but offers no respite from the relentless ascent. I meet a small group of local hikers here – which are the first people I’ve encountered so far.
From Pos 2 to Pos 3 is the steepest part of the Mount Batukaru ascent, climbing 160m over a distance of about 300m.
Pos 3 (1,850m elevation) has a small shrine at the edge of a flat clearing that could be used for camping.
The terrain changes significantly from Pos 3, with the jungle yielding to more open forest with giant casuarina trees and denser undergrowth – and the occasional filtered view.
This is one of the easiest sections, although a few ropes have been placed where the track is eroded and slippery.
The summit of Mount Batukaru has been largely cleared, and has a number of structures including a few shelters and Pura Pucak Kedaton (Pucak Kedaton Temple).
Standing at 2,276 meters (7,467 feet) above sea level, Mount Batukaru is the second-highest mountain in Bali and the highest mountain in the Bedugul Volcanic Area. Its name translates to “coconut shell mountain”, referring to the shape of Batukaru which has a massive volcanic crater with an open gap on its southern side.
The views from Mount Batukaru are spectacular on a clear day, making this a great mountain for a sunrise trek. I reach the summit at around 10:30am, with clouds limiting visibility a little. There is a clear view to the north-east of the many other volcanic formations in the Bedugul volcanic area: Mount Catur / Pucak Mangu, Mount Sanghyang, Mount Pohen and Mount Tapak.
To the left (west) of Mount Pengelengan and Mount Tapak is the diminutive but distinctive Turyapada Tower – a 115m tall telecommunications tower completed in 2026.
To the east is Mount Agung (3,031m), and in the distance you can see Mount Rinjani (3,726m) and next to it the smaller peaks of Mount Layur (2,905m) and Mount Timanuk (2,939m),
There are several groups of hikers dispersed on the summit – and a dog – but not a lot of shade, other than the concrete shelters. I don’t linger on the summit very long, before heading back the same way. You could also return via a different route, which in hindsight would make this a slightly more interesting hike. Just below the peak are a few of the passive and highly active stratovolcanoes located in East Java: Mount Raung (3,332m), Mount Pendu (2,394m) and Mount Merapi (2,803m).
It’s a much quicker descent back to Pura Malen; from here there are some views to the north east over Mount Sanghyang and Mount Adeng.
The temple is worth a visit: Pura Malen (also known as Pura Siwa Pujungan) is relatively new, having been founded in 2008 by Jero Mangku Sutarjana. It features an impressive 10-metre statue of Lord Shiva, who sat cross-legged upright on a mountainside – the Supreme Lord who creates, protects and transforms the universe. The temple also has a statue of Goddess Parwati carrying a saucer of water (and the Shiva Buddha Sri Ganesha and Lembu Nandi Statues).
It’s taken just over two hours to ascend Mount Batukaru with minimal breaks, and 1hr 30min to descend. The trail is consistently steep but not particularly challenging, and most of it is well shaded if you’re starting later in the day.
Getting to Mount Batukaru via Pura Malen
The Jalur Pujungan Pupuan route starts from Pura Malen on the north-western side of Mount Batukaru. It’s at least a two hour drive from Ubud or Denpasar, and longer with traffic, so a relatively early start is recommended. Below the temple is a paid parking area, and a small family-run warung where you purchase water or a cold drink.
Mount Batukaru summit routes
As with most of Bali’s taller peaks, there are multiple Mount Batukaru summit routes you can take – you could also combine these routes if you organise a different drop-off and pick-up point.
- From Pura Malen (Jalur Pujungan Pupuan) to the north-west as described here is a straightforward route, with a well-defined and consistently steep trail that passes three signposted rest stations. 6km / 1,100m elevation gain / 4-6 hours.
- From Pura Batukaru (Wongaye Gede route) to the south was traditionally the most popular route, which also starts from a temple known as Pura Luhu Batukarui (or Jalur Wongaye Gede). It’s been reported that “the staff at the temple office have begun to gain a very bad reputation indeed, particularly when dealing with non-Indonesians.” 11.9km / 1,460m ascent / 6-8 hours
- From Sarinbuana / Biyahan (Jalur Sarin Buana) to the south has been described as the easiest route, but is fairly long and the trail is now overgrown in parts. This route converges near the top with the Pura Batukaru route. 15.3km / 1520m elevation gain / 6-8 hours
- From Luhur Taksu Agung Temple or Pura Luhur Bhujangga Waisnawa Gunung Sari (Jatiluwih route) to the south-east is a good trail through the jungle which follows a narrow ridge near the top. 11.6km / 1,400m elevation gain / 5-7 hours
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