I had no expectations for this off-track walk out to Challenger Head at West Head, but it looked intriguing on the map, with the steep contours on both sides of the headland suggesting some nice views over the Hawkesbury River. On the other hand, no cliffs were shown on the topo map, so it was just as likely there would be very limited views. Like almost every West Head bushwalk, it starts with a firetrail off West Head Road that follows the top of the ridge. It’s an easy, pleasant but not particularly exciting walk.
About halfway is small rock platform that provides a view out to the south over West Head and towards Topham Hill.
At the end of the firetrail is a nice view through the trees over Cowan Creek.
I head back up the Challenger Trail a short distance, before picking what seems to be the least thick patch of vegetation as I head off-track towards the top of the ridge.
There are soon some sweeping views to the north, with a glimpse of the Hawkesbury Railway Bridge in the distance.
The vegetation along the top of Challenger Head is not too thick, and is broken up by multiple rock platforms that are easier to walk along than through the surrounding bush. I’m surprised to find that there is also a (very) faint trail along the middle of the ridge, marked by deliberately snapped branches at regular intervals.
I’m even more surprised to stumble on a metre-high rock cairn. It’s not a trig point, and it’s way too elaborately constructed to be a track marker. Perhaps someone had some spare time on their hands…
As I continue along Challenger Head, I stay as close to the northern edge of the ridge as possible, following a series of rock platforms along the top of the cliff-line.
For the first time there’s a view down to the far end of Challenger Head; Challenger Head is the western-most headland on the Lambert Peninsula, and was named after HMS Challenger.
There are some interesting rock formations along the top of the increasingly steep cliff-line.
It’s hard to resist descending to the enormous overhangs below me, with a narrow slot providing a convenient path to the base of the cliffs.
Despite the steep terrain, it’s easy to traverse the base of the cliffs to another ramp at the far end, which enables an easy scramble back up to the top.
I head away from the cliff-edge to avoid some thick scrub, passing a rock platform that has a small rock “arch” weathered over thousands of years and only a few centimetres across at its thinnest point.
I’m soon back at the edge of the steeo cliff-line, and the scenery keeps getting better. There are unobstructed views over the Hawkesbury River to Brooklyn, Dangar Island and Brisbane Water National Park.
There’s a small saddle along the the Challenger Head, with with an easy scramble across some large boulders.
The next high point offers more spectacular views, initially filtered by trees…
…before opening up again to a panoramic view across the Hawkesbury River.
Almost all the views are to the north; to the south (on the other side of America Bay, which you can’t see) is Topham Hill, one of my favourite places in West Head and one of the areas with the highest density of Aboriginal rock art sites.
Looking back up Challenger Head, you can see some of the tall cliffs that provide a great vantage point over the river.
The last five hundred metres or so, as you cross the second saddle along Challenger Head, doesn’t offer any great views. Nor are there any views to the west once you reach the end of the headland, with steep slopes rather than cliffs on the western side. (As is often the case, the standard topographic maps are prettty useless in their level of detail; the contour lines are fairly evenly spaced around the entire headland, but the reality is there are vertical cliffs on the northern side, and steep slopes on the western and southern sides.)
Unlike the rest of Challenger Head, the last “hill” consists of open grassland with some impressively large eucalyptus trees towering overhead. It’s easy walking and I’m glad I pushed on to the end – but if you’re just after the views or short on time, you can stop at the previous high point and not miss much.
It’s getting late in the day, so after a very short break I head back the same way. I’m doing my best not to stop every few minutes to take photos, but the late afternoon light makes the views even more photogenic than on the way out…
I’m back on the Challenger Trail just before sunset, with an easy walk back to the car.
It’s taken me about two and a half hours, at a fairly brisk pace and with minimal breaks; you could easily spend another hour or two exploring the cliff lines. Or building a second cairn…
Getting to Challenger Head
The Challenger Trail is about 2/3rd of the way along West Head Road on the right (eastern) side; there is parking for a couple of cars near the locked gate. About 1.6km along the firetrail – just before the end – head up through the scrub to the ridge.
More information
The Guide to West Head has more off-track walks, and all of the trails of West Head.
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