A snowy hike to the frozen Ohnuma-ike Pond

One of my last hikes on our three week Japan trip, the trail to Ohnuma-ike Pond (also called Ohnuma-ike Lake and Onumaike Pond) in the Shigakogen Highlands is a short bus ride from our hotel near the Snow Monkey Park. I’m expecting a bit of snow on the ground, but it’s early winter and the snowfall has been lower than average – so I’m hoping I’ll make it without snow shoes. You can do this walk year-round with the appropriate gear – snow shoes or cross country skies – with the hiking season being June to October.)

I’m the only person hopping off the local bus at a rather desolate bus stop on the highway, with the driver seeming to question my sanity. Notably, it’s my first and only hike in Japan where I don’t encounter a single vending machine. The trail to Ohnuma-ike Pond starts as a snow-covered road, before a walking track branches off and crosses a small river over a timber bridge.

As I continue along the hiking trail, which ascends through the forest, the snow gets deeper but is still manageable with just hiking shoes.

It’s about 1.5km (which takes me a solid half an hour of plodding through the snow with some occasional post-holing) to reach the junction where the hiking trail meets the road.

Although I’m thinking it will be quicker on the road, the snow is fairly deep. Even when I stick to the trodden path, it’s still a somewhat slow hike up towards Ohnuma-ike Pond.

On the opposite side of the valley, there appears to be less snow on the ground, and the trees almost glow in the afternoon sun.

It’s pleasant walking despite the relatively slow progress; so far I haven’t seen a single other person.

I finally reach Ohnuma-ike Pond, which is described as both “emerald green” and “cobalt blue”. Today it’s just “frozen white”!

Although it gets dark pretty early, I have enough time to continue part of the way around Ohnuma-ike Pond – I was originally hoping to get to the top of the 2,109m Mt Akaishi (Akaishiyama) but I don’t have enough time left to tackle this peak. The snow is a little less deep on some sections of the trail, which follows the edge of the lake.

There’s frequent view of the frozen Ohnuma-ike Pond through the trees, and soon the famous red Japanese shrine gate or “torii” comes into view. It looks tiny against the backdrop of 2000k+ peaks around the alpine lake.

The trail ascends a bit higher above the water on the eastern side, providing a view across the full width of the lake.

I’m soon at a small picnic area, which is at about half-way along the edge of the lake; there are toilets here (which are locked in winter) and I’d expect there would be a few people around in the warmer months. But today, there is no-one.

The red torii (gate) is only a couple of hundred metres away, but with the snow slowing progress significantly, this is as far as I get (you can walk further around the lake to the base of the torii).

I take a slightly different route back, which stays closer to the Ohnuma-ike Pond, before a short and steep climb to the main track.

The walk back is a bit easier, being all downhill, with the late afternoon sun casting a warm glow on the bare trees.

From the junction with the walking track, I continue along the road – the sun is getting lower and the road is a bit longer (2km compared to 1.5km) but I’m making good progress, and I always prefer to take a different route where I can.

Compared to the walking track, the road offers a bit more of a view towards the west – and the setting sun offers the possibility of a nice sunset.

A bit further along there is a gap in the trees, offering a nice outlook over some of the highest peaks to the west.

I make it back to the road not long before it gets dark, just in time for the bus back to the hotel (which comes every hour).

It’s been a most enjoyable walk despite (or perhaps because of) the snow, although it has taken me twice as long as it normally would to cover the distance. With more time, I would recommend either continuing up to Mt Akaishi and doing a longer loop, finishing at the Shika Kogen ski resort (one bus stop further). Or traversing Mt Shigayama and finishing at Harao.

Getting to Ohnuma-ike Pond

The most common starting (and ending) point for the hike to Ohnuma-ike Pond is the signposted trailhead along Route 471 at the Onumaike Iriguchi bus stop, which is 45min from Yudanaka Station. Alternately, you could start or finish the walk at the Takaamagara Ryo bus stop (near Shiga Kogen ski resort) which is also on Route 471, or along National Highway 292 at the Kidoike bus stop (near Hirao).