It’s a little overcast for the first time in a week of tackling Bali’s tallest volcanic peaks; the top of Mount Tapak (Gunung Tapak) is shrouded in cloud as I approach from the south. After paying the small Surat Izin Masuk Kawasan Konservasi (conservation area entry permit) fee of IDR 25,000, I set off from the Batusesa trailhead – it’s the same starting point as one of the hiking routes to Mount Pohen (Gunung Pohen), so the parking area is fairly busy.
The trail begins along a forestry road (closed to cars, though a few motorcycles zip past), soon reaching a large Hanuman statue. Hanuman — the divine Vanara of the Ramayana — symbolises strength, devotion, and loyalty. The Mount Tapak route is clearly signposted here; take the wrong turn and you’ll end up on Mount Pohen, or after a long walk, on one of the trails to Mount Nagaloka.
The forestry road continues past the Bedugul Geothermal Power Station, a proposed 65–175 MW renewable energy project initiated in the 1970s and revived in the late 1990s before stalling in 2005 due to strong opposition from local communities, environmental groups, and religious leaders.
Beyond the power station, the trail enters the jungle, climbing gently as it approaches Mount Tapak from the south.
Light rain filters through dense foliage, with tall trees arching over the track.
Whether through good planning or sheer luck, I’ve picked one of the volcanic peaks where the journey is as rewarding as the destination. At least, that’s what I’ve convinced myself… While many Bali summits involve relentlessly steep ascents, Mount Tapak is — at least so far — a pleasant, atmospheric walk despite the lingering rain
The trail starts to get steeper as it ascends towards a saddle below the Mount Tapak summit.
A final climb leads to an intersection with another trail and a sign politely asking visitors not to litter: “If your hike is fueled by heartbreak… Just love ME with your heart… Don’t hurt nature with your trash!!”
I’m less than 15min from the summit, but I’d planned to take a more circuitous route via a smaller peak. So, after the hard-earned elevation I’ve just gained, I now descend a steep and slightly slippery trail back down to the same saddle I’ve just climbed up from.
There is a very crude signpost marking my intended route, but the track very soon peters out.
Without a detailed topographic map and faced with some dense jungle, I retreat, re-tracing back up to where I left the main track. It’s a quick and easy walk from here to the Mount Tapak summit.
There’s a lot of people on the summit, which has a Hindu temple (Pura Puncak Teratai Bang) and a Muslim shrine of Habib Umar. At an elevation of 1,909m, Mount Tapak (Gunung Tapak) is Bali’s seventh highest mountain.
There’s not much of a view from the top of Mount Tapak due to the weather, although the clouds lift just enough to provide a glimpse of Lake Beratan to the east. Even on a clear day, the views are not spectacular: “Because of the dense vegetation, you won’t get the open panoramic views you do on Catur, but the ‘lost world’ jungle atmosphere is worth it.”
The descent follows an alternate route ending at the Bedugul Botanical Garden, and is very different in character to the ascent.
Like most Bali summit trails, it is steep and direct, dropping quickly through the forest.
Although this is considered the more popular route, I encounter only one group heading up.
Unlike the southern approach from the Bedugul geothermal station, there are ropes for almost the entire length of the trail – although they are rarely needed.
The trail is steep all the way to the bottom, offering a glimpse of Lake Beratan near the end.
Just before reaching the botanical garden, signs warn that the trail is closed — though there are no warnings at the summit. It’s unclear whether access from the botanical garden has been formally closed or whether a new trailhead exists; I can’t find any reliable information online confirming the closure.
The trail emerges at the western end of the Bedugul Botanical Garden; unlike at the opposite trailhead, there is no signage and the trail is not obvious. Regardless of which route you take, allow about three hours for the Mount Tapak hike (the trail from the botanical gardens is shorter but has slightly more elevation gain).
The advantage of finishing here is that you can wander around the Bedugul Botanical Garden after the hike – also called Eka Karya Botanic Garden (Eka means “first” and Karya means “creation”) it was founded in 1959 and is Indonesia’s largest botanical garden. I have a quick poke around the Cactus Greenhouse and Orchid Garden while I’m waiting for my driver to pick me up.
Getting to Mount Tapak (Gunung Tapak)
The starting point for Mount Tapak near the Bedugul Geothermal Power Station is the easier of the two trailheads to find; it has a large carpark and a ticket office where you need to purchase an entry permit. It’s located at the eastern end of Candikuning in the Tabanan Regency province (you can put “Hutan Bedugul” (Bedugul Forest) in Google Maps,
From the Bedugul Botanic Garden, the Mount Tapak trail starts near the Cactus Garden; while the trail is very distinct, there is no signage. You can get dopped by car at the start of the trail, or it’s a 15min walk from the park gates. Allow about 1:30min from Ubud for either of the trailheads.
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