There’s a reason that the Cliffs of Moher is one of the most visited tourist sites in Ireland, with around 1.5 million visits per year – the vertical cliffs are an awe-inspiring sight. The Cliffs of Moher have appeared in several films, including The Princess Bride (1987), Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince (2009), Leap Year (2010) and Irish Wish (2024). But behind the scenic views are myths and legends, and more recently some political intrigue that is as fascinating as the dramatic landscape.
You can walk for about 3km along the paved paths of the Cliffs of Moher Experience, or really experience the sea cliffs from Hag’s Head on a loop of a similar distance.
Cliffs of Moher Experience
Most visitors admire the vertical escarpments via the Cliffs of Moher Experience, where a large carpark caters for the 4,000+ people who visit each day and provides easy easy access to the sea cliffs. It’s located northern end of the Cliffs of Moher, which extend for 14 kilometres along the coastline between the towns of Liscannor and Doolin.
A paved path goes in both directions along the top of the cliff-line, with a solid fence providing protection from the sheer drop below. A walking trail along the entire length of the sea cliff is largely unfenced, and between 1993 and 2017 it was reported that 66 people fell to their depths (some of these being suicides, rather than accidents).
As you continue north, the the paved path reaches O’Brien’s Tower, built in 1835 by local landlord and MP Cornelius O’Brien as an observation tower for tourists. It marks the highest point of the Cliffs of Moher, which are 214 metres (702 ft) in height.
On a clear day the views extend as far as Loop Head at the southern tip of Clare the mountains of Kerry, Twelve Bens in Connemara to the north the Aran Islands to the west.
The paved trail continues beyond O’Brien’s Tower, where there is one of the best views of the sheer, vertical cliffs. At the foor of the cliffs is Branaunmore, a 67-metre high sea stack caused by coastal erosion which gradually removed the layers of rock that joined it with the mainland.
After another few hundred metres the trail reaches a barrier, which is as far as you can go – most of the Cliffs of Moher trail between Liscannor and Doolin was closed in early 2025. (I’ll get to this soon… the circumstances behind the trail closure is a sad and sorry tale of politics and greed.)
In the other direction (south) from the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre, the trail only goes for a few hundred metres before reaching a barrier. Below the trail you can might be able to see some of the estimated 30,000 pairs of birds that live on the sea cliffs; they include puffins which live in large colonies at isolated parts of the cliffs. The Cliffs of Moher host major colonies of nesting sea birds and are one of the country’s most important bird-breeding sites.
The myths and legends of Cliffs of Moher
Many captivating myths and legends add intrigue to the Cliffs of Moher:
- Leap of Foals/Aill Na Searrach – the deities of the Tuatha De Danann transformed themselves into horses as an act of protest. After seeking refuge for centuries in the caves of Kilcornan, seven foals emerged from the caves and binded by the sunlight they galloped off the cliff’s edge and into the ocean.
- Witch’s Unrequited Love – A witch named Mal became infatuated with Cú Chulainn (the valiant warrior of the Red Branch), and pursued him across Ireland. After Cú Chulainn lept onto an island to escape her, she fell short and crashed into the rocks.
- The Mermaid of Moher – After encountering a mermaid while fishing near the Cliffs of Moher, the fisherman steals and hides her magical cloak. Unable to return to sea without it, she agrees to marry him and they have two children… before one day she finds the hidden cloak and disappears forever…
A modern tale of political scandal
More than half of the Cliffs of Moher Trail between Liscannor and Doolin was closed in August 2024, after two fatal falls over a short period in that year. Sports Ireland found during an audit that “a number of safety issues were identified along the trail” and until these were remediated the organisation could not continue to insure some sections of the trail. The complexity of re-opening the Cliffs of Moher Trail is that it’s collectively owned by 38 farmers, whose land the coastal route traverses.
That all sounds reasonable… but it’s not the complete story. Clare County Council paid more than €8 million to purchase two farms located close to the Cliffs of Moher Visitors Experience – a return to the two landowners of around €147,000 per acre. It’s well above the value of farmland in the area and was determined by an independent auditor to be “higher than market value”. This was funded by the 1.5 million visitors paying €8 per adult to access the Cliffs of Moher Experience – generating revenue totaling €13.8 million in 2023.
The rest of the farmers along the Cliffs of Moher Trail each receive a “small payment” under the Irish National Walks Scheme, with some also getting a sustainability grant worth roughly €1,000 per year. Adding insult to injury for the farmers, a leaked report (the Tobin Report commissioned by the Clare County Council) recommended that the Council buy out the 36 landowners who currently own sections of the trail – by compulsory purchase (CPO) if necessary.
The result is a stand-off, with the 36 landowners who own sections of the Cliffs of Moher Trail stating that they “will not accept anything less than a fair and reasonable payment for access to their land”. While the Council, which is generating €15m+ annually in revenue from the Cliffs of Moher Experience, is quite happy to funnel visitors into this curated and developed facility.
Experiencing the “real” Cliffs of Moher
While the award-winning Cliffs of Moher Experience does offer a great view of the cliffs, the paved paths and stone fences make you feel very disconnected from the landscape. Determined to experience the Cliffs of Moher without the crowds and concrete, and armed with some local knowledge, I set off for Hag’s Head. A local farmer offers parking for €5 (cash only) along the access road, with the first kilometre following the narrow lane.
At the end of the lane is Hags Head, the most southerly point of the Cliffs of Moher where the cliffs rise 120 metres (390 ft) above the Atlantic Ocean. It’s also the location of the Witch’s Unrequited Love myth where Mal (the witch) fell to her death pursuing Cú Chulainn:
Unrelenting, Mal attempted to leap to the island as well, propelled by a gust of wind. Seizing the opportunity, Cú Chulainn swiftly jumped back to the mainland, but Mal, relying on the wind’s assistance from the previous leap, fell short. Tragically, she crashed into the rocks below, staining the bay with her blood and giving rise to the belief that the bay was named after her, known as Malbay. Known to day as Miltown Malbay.
The rocks, now known as Hag’s Head, are said to bear the profile of Mal, forever etched in their form, serving as a lasting reminder of the legend to this day.
The Myths and Legends of the Cliffs of Moher
The ruined Moher Tower stands at Hag’s Head, which until the early 19th century was the site of a promontory fort known as Mothar or Moher. The Cliffs of Moher take their name from this old promontory fort.
From here you’re on the unimproved Cliffs of Moher Trail, which follows the top of the sea cliffs.
At times the trail is very close to the cliff-edge, and while there is no danger if care is taken, it’s a very different experience to the concrete paths of the Cliffs of Moher Experience. At the base of the cliffs is a small sea-arch.
I continue for about a kilometre along the top of the cliffs, enjoying the solitude and the dramatic scenery unfolding beneath me.
On reaching a small concrete picnic table nestled under a small headland, the path is blocked by a barrier and a sign stating “private property” (unlike the section I’ve just walked, which is also private property but I was advised was OK to enter).
I exit here down a lane, which brings me back to where I parked my car.
Both the Cliffs of Moher hikes are about 3km, but offer quite a different experience. I hope one day it’s possible again to do the entire Cliffs of Moher Trail, which is very deservedly one of Ireland’s most spectacular hiking trails.
Getting to the Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher Experience starts from the large Cliffs of Moher Car Park along Ballard Road, which is about 8.8km (12min drive) from the town of Doolin and 6km (10min) from Liscannor. There’s a short walk over to the Visitor Centre, and then up to about 3km of walking along the paved cliff-top paths.
Parking for the Cliffs of Moher Trail from Liscannor is in Kinconnell, where a farm property offers paid parking (theres no parking along the narrow road or at the end of the road where the hiking trail starts). It’s a 5km (8min) drive from Liscannor.
More information
- Cliffs of Moher – The Myths and Legends of the Cliffs of Moher
- Islands – The Unsettling Reason Ireland’s Popular Cliffs Of Moher Are Closed For 2025
- Clare Chamnpion – No wiggle room for council following €8 million payout
- Agriland – Auditor: Council paid €8m for lands near Cliffs of Moher
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