After my previous hike in Hakone up Mt Byobu – where the mountain peak was covered in vegetation and offered almost no view – I’m not sure what to expect on today’s hike up Mount Misen. We’re in Hiroshima on a 3-week trip through Japan and heading out to Miyajima (or Itsukushima), an island known for its “floating” torii gate and thousands of free-roaming Sika deer.
The peak of Mount Misen, at 535m, is the highest point on the island and the mountain has been considered sacred since at least the 9th century. It was selected in “New Japanese Top 100 Mountains” that Motoo Iwasaki, mountaineer, released in 2004. A ropeway or cablecar takes you to just below the peak, and there are three hiking routes to the top of the mountain – and a network of trails over the island that would take a full day to explore.
Momijidani Course
I decide to take the Momijidani Course up Mount Misen, which is initially the same way as to the bottom ropeway station.
It’s about 1.5km to the start of the trail, which takes almost an hour as the route passes the Itsukushima Shrine and many other attractions along the way. The Momijidani course starts at the Momijidani Park, which is known for its Japanese Maple Trees that have spectacular red colours during autumn. It’s not so colourful today, but am I greeted by two relaxed Sika deer (also known as Northern spotted deer or the Japanese deer). Momijidani Park is also the site of an 688m-long erosion and sediment control channel in the Momijidani River, which was constructed in 1948-1950. It was the first civil engineering work constructed after WWII, and is now designated an “Important Cultural Property” in Japan.
This route up Mount Misen starts as wide trail…
…but very soon becomes a hiking trail, with many stone steps.
There are frequent distance markers, as the trail continues its constant climb up the side of the mountain.
The trail follows the Momijidani River fairly closely, which has only a trickle of water. A number of enormous concrete weirs across the valley are designed to stop what must be a torrent of water during severe storms, and were constructed after the 1945 typhoon that caused extensive damage to the island.
Mount Misen Main Path
After 1.7km – according to the trail signs – the junction with the Main Path from the upper ropeway station to the summit is reached. The trail gets a bit busier from here – but it’s less busy than usual, as strong winds have meant that the ropeway has paused operations.
There are now some views for the first time, out to the east over Hiroshima Bay. The trail continues to ascend, but a lot less steeply.
Just below the summit is the Misen Hondo Main Hall which enshrines Kokuzo Bosatsu, the deity of luck and wisdom and is one of three places in Japan where Shingon Buddhism is taught. Opposite is the Kiezo-no-Reikando Hall (Eternal Fire Hall) which contains the Kiezu-no-hi (the eternal flame), one of the Seven Wonders of Mount Misen. This is where in 806 the Japanese Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi a holy fire, which has supposedly been burning ever since. The fire was used to light the eternal flame in the Hiroshima Peace Park.
A blackened kettle simmers over the fire, and you can drink the water – it’s thought to have the power to cure all ills. (Or, if a soft drink is more your thing, there is also a vending machine nearby…)
There are a few smaller shrines along the track.
From the temple complex it’s only another 400m to the top of Mount Misen, along one of the most interesting and scenic sections of the route up. It passes through the “Kuguri-iwa”, a natural arch in the rocks.
At the top of Mount Misen is the Mt Misen Observatory, the highest point of the island of Miyajima at 535m above sea level. The top floor offers an unbroken 360-degree view, while downstairs – much to my surprise – is NOT a vending machine, but a small, manned tourist information booth, which sells souvenirs.
The views from the top are spectacular, despite the clouds and mist.
The treeless summit area is covered in large boulders (the Misen Megalithic Group of Rock Formations, according to Google Maps) with Hiroshima Bay behind it.
Below to the east is the top station of the ropeway, and beyond it the uninhabited Onasabi island (Onasabi-shima). In the opposite direction, almost directly to the west, is the rocky Komagabayashi Peak.
The small but distinctive island Kogurokami island (Kogurokami-jima) is to the south-east, another uninhabited island. Behind it is Etajima, a cluster of islands in the Seto Inland Sea known for its coastal bike paths and rugged mountain hiking trails.
I head back down an alternate path, which has a steep set of steps past Kanman Iwa Rock and Dainichido Hall, a Buddhist temple which is the oldest building on the island. Dainichido Hall dates back to 1599, when the warlord Mohri Terumoto (1553–1625) ordered its construction, and it was also the most important structure on the peak for over 250 years. Almost all the other temple buildings on Mount Misen were rebuilt after the peak was struck by a destructive typhoon in 1991.
Along the trail is the Jizo Buddha Hall of Mizukake, next to a small spring: it’s said if you draw water from the spring and sprinkle it on the Jizo statue of a parent and child, your wish regarding the child will come true.
A side-track goes to Miyama Shrine, it’s bright red buildings located behind a large tori gate on the side of Mount Misen. There’s also some nice views from this serene and less-visited spot.
I end up having almost an hour to explore the Miyami Shrine; a hiker fell and was badly injured on the mountain, and I have to patiently wait while a helicopter drops two rescuers onto Kujira-iwa (Whale Rock), before returning to winch everyone back up.
It’s not really what I expected to see on the Mount Misen hike, but it makes for an unusually interesting break!
The trail descends a little before ascending to Kujira-iwa (Whale Rock), from where the injured hiker was airlifted out. The rock is supposedly shaped like a whale – although I couldn’t really see the resemblance – and offers a great view from the top.
The trail then descends again to Niomon Gate, where two Nio guardians of Buddha stand guard to repeal any evil from entering beyond its gates. (In the Edo era, you weren’t allowed to climb Mount Misen past this gate after 2pm, and if you did you would experience evil consequences brought on by long-nosed goblins.)
Omoto Course to Komagabayashi Peak
The Niomon Gate is also where the Daisho-in Course and Omoto Course meet; I’m taking the Omoto Course up to Komagabayashi Peak, which climbs up via a set of stone steps.
After 200m is the junction with the track up to the peak, which consists mostly of more stone steps.
It’s worth doing this relatively short side-trip; like Mount Misen it offers an outstanding view from the top. While you don’t get a 360-degree panorama as you do from the Mount Misen Observation Station, you’ll probably have the Komagabayashi Peak to yourself, and it’s a completely natural setting. No fences, or temples, or vending machines… which is unusual for a Japanese mountain summit!
You can see the Mount Misen peak to the east rising above Hiroshima Bay, and there’s a great view of Miyajimaguchi and the Daiko Mountains.
Daisho-in Course
I re-trace my steps back to Niomon Gate, and then take the Daisho-in Course back down Mount Misen. It’s a well-engineered path, but a bit slippery in places due to ice.
As the Daisho-in trail descends, it follows the Shiraito River, which has some enormous weirs and stone structures to mitigate flooding. The trail goes through the Misen Virgin Forest – a Natural Monument of Japan.
A large viewing platform around the halfway mark provides an outlook over Hiroshima Bay.
There’s an even better view a little further on, looking down over the floating torii gate of Itsukushima.
Near the bottom of the Daisho-in Course is the small Takimiya Shrine, and from the shrine is a very short trail to the Shiraitono Falls – which has only a trickle of water.
On the opposite side of the Shiraito River is the Daisho-in temple.
The trail continues past the temple, which is accessed via a trail across the river further down.
Daisho-in Temple marks the end of the Daisho-in Course. The temple (also known as Suishō-ji) is thought to have been founded by Kukai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, in 806. It become the official prayer hall for Emperor Toba (1103-1156) a few centuries later, and in 1885 Emperor Meiji stayed at Daisho-in during his visit to Miyajima. The temple’s main hall was damaged by fire in 1887 and had to be reconstructed, and was restored again in 1998 and damage from the 1991 typhoon.
Daisho-in consists of a number of large buildings, which includes the Reikando Hall containing the Eternal Fire at the top of Mount Misen. At the base of the mountain, the temple complex consists of: the Kannon Hall with it’s huge roof and evergreen plants lining the perimeter, the Chokugan Hall, the Maniden Hall which is highly decorated with carvings and has the appearance of a pagoda, and the Daishi Hall at the very back of the temple grounds which has an artificial cave underneath.
From the Daisho-in Temple, it’s an easy stroll back along the coastline to return to the ferry terminal.
I would have loved to have a full day hiking on Miyajima, especially with the short winter days – this has been a spectacular loop walk!
Seven Wonders of Mount Misen
The Seven Wonders of Misen, which are derived from ancient tales, are:
- Kiezu-no-hi (the eternal flame) – is the holy fire said to have been started by the Kobo Daishi, who founded the Daishoin Temple in 806. It still burns today.
- Shakujo-no-ume (Plum tree of Tin Stick) – said to be Kobo-Daishi’s crosier, which took root where he was leaning on it and grew into a plum tree.
- Mandara-iwa – a gigantic bedrock face behind Misenhondo Hall, on which handwritten letters, Sanskrit characters and illustrations of Kobo Daishi are engraved. Currently closed to visitors.
- Kanman-iwa (ebb-and-flow rock) – sits about 500 meters above sea level, but somehow saltwater rises and subsides inside its hollow according to the ebb and flow of the tide.
- Hyoshigi-no oto (Sound of wooden clappers) – you can hear the ‘clink, clink’ sound of beating wooden clappers coming from nowhere in the middle of the night. Legend has it that the source of the noise is a tengu, a long-nosed goblin who lives inside in Mount Misen.
- Shigure-zakura (showered cherry blossom) - a cherry tree that was always moist with dew, as if there has been a passing shower, even on a dry and sunny day. The tree has since been cut down.
- Ryuoto No Sugi (Sea-fire Japan Cedar) – a great cedar tree which could be seen as mysterious lights from the sea off the coast of Miyajima. It was said the lights were clearer on the eve of a lunar New Year. It’s now dead with only the stump remaining.
Getting to Mount Misen
The first step is to get to Miyajima, which is reached by ferry:
- From the Miyajimaguchi port, which takes 10 minutes on either the Matsudai Kisen Tourist Ship or and JR Miyajima Ferry (this one is covered by the Japan Rail Pass) – they leave on a frequent basis
- From Hiroshima Peace Park on the Aqua Net Hiroshima direct ferry, which takes about 45 minutes – but it only operates when the tide is not too low or too high, so check the schedule!
Once at the Miyajima ferry terminal, getting to the respective trailheads takes between 20-30 minutes depending on the trail. Follow the crowds towards the Itsukushima Shrine:
- Main Trail from Miyajima Ropeway: 1km with 125m elevation. Paved trail with some nice views.
- Daisho-in Course: 2.3km with 513m elevation gain. Starts at Daisho-in temple and has some great views as you pass through the Misen Virgin Forest
- Momijidani Course: 2.5km with 494m elevation gain. No views from the trail (until you reach the Main Trail)
- Omoto Course: 2.9km with 524m elevation gain. Longest routes which passes “Omotogankai” (“sea of boulders”), Fujiiwa Rock, Iwayataishiryuketsu Cave and Komagabayashi Forest.
More information
- Tourist in Japan – Mount Misen Hiking Trails / Map
- Miyajima Ropeway – Wonder of Nature
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